The Conspiracy Crag is a recently developed crag with 15 or so sport routes presently established. The rock is very similar to Primo in being largely excellent, bullet-proof stone, however, there remains some surface exfoliation and scaling that will improve with more climbing traffic. The climbing is all under 100 ft, so a 60 meter rope will suffice for everything. Difficulty runs from 5.10 through middle 5.12 with some potential for hard cave routes yet to be developed. For simplicity, I'll start numbering from the left side, sweeping right to a two pitch line, #7. The main features of the crag face due East, so this will not be a good winter spot. In the summer, the high position and Eastern exposure can provide welcome respite from the heat.
Getting to The Conspiracy Crag is something of a task. From Primo Wall, hike East past The Armory. After a short while, a cairned "trail" takes off South, up the hill. The main crag will be obvious on the hillside. The slope is fairly unconsolidated, and it took us the better part of 20 minutes carrying regular packs and ropes to hike up here.
Pitch 1 (10d): climb up into a left-facing corner, over a bulge, then an easy slope to anchors. It is a bit pumpy getting over the bulge, or one can move right onto the arete at this point. The rock is crumbly in places and needs to clean up.Pitch 2 (11c): head left above the ledge....[more]Browse More Classics in CO
Here's the beta on this crag: the approach trail sucks and is very loose. The routes have been climbed under 3 or 4 times total. From left to right, the first route is not that great with the least fun climbing on it 12b; the next route up the black steak is great fun with a chossy start for the first 2 bolts 11d; the third route is great fun on pretty good stone with a pumpy move pulling the roof 12a; the next route is a travers problem on big holds that puts you on large jugs to pull the crux move, heel hook, gastone and pull on the left sloper till you get the jug undercling and climb the rest of the jugs to the anchor 12a; the next two routes start with a high first bolt (stick clip) and branch left and right respectively the left line is a pile and climbs at about 10d; the right line has the same start and is great fun with a excellent finish off a crimp to a sloper jug 11a. There are currently no routes in the large roof because it is a chossy area that would need to be drilled out. The next line is down below the roof and climbs the slab for a long pitch (not very interesting) 10. Then way off to the right about a 100 yards are two lines the left being a 8 or 9 slab with big holds and the right line is up great stone and climbs at about the 11+ level.
Overall, the routes are new and have lots of rock to still fall off. Most are pretty good fun and chances are no one else will be climbing with you. It's a good place for a work out, but the hike makes the decision to go to Anarchy wall easy. If you have done all the other routes in the canyon and need to onsight some 12a grades, check out the wall and help clean them up a little bit, it won't be a waste of time.
Overall, approach is horrible and descent worse - be super careful, knocked some decent-sized rocks down the hill a few hundrend yards... rock quality is questionable on some of the routes still, broke a few holds - belays are pretty inconvenient/unstable. That said, the movement on some of the routes is great and compensates for the over terrible things about the crag. I'd say it's worth going to once or twice.