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Northwest Recess
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Consolation, The T 
Constellation T 
Edgehogs T 
Error, The T 
Farewell Horizontal T,S 
Gulp, The T 
Incision, The T 
Long Climb, The T 
Magical Mystery Tour T 
Sahara Terror T 
Snakes on Everything T 
Souvenir, The T 
Swallow, The T 
Whodunit T 
Wong Climb T 

The Consolation 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 800'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: John Mendenhall and Chuck Wilts, May 1953 FFA Royal Robbins and TM Herbert, 1959
Page Views: 8,295
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Feb 24, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (67)
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BETA PHOTO: 5.10 slab entrance to the Consolation corner

Description 

This is another excellent long crack route on the shadiest wall at Tahquitz. Route-finding is quite easy. Much of the climbing is hand-jamming. Pitch 2 (5.8) has an overhang with a few nice moves. The crux third pitch has a 12 foot long, slightly overhanging jam crack, and then a short overhang with a weird exit move.

Protection 

The protection on this route is good bring extra hand-sized pieces.


Photos of The Consolation Slideshow Add Photo
looking down P2
looking down P2
Jascha approaching the third belay
Jascha approaching the third belay
the crux pitch
BETA PHOTO: the crux pitch
Red: The route we took Green: line is a rough gues...
BETA PHOTO: Red: The route we took Green: line is a rough gues...

Comments on The Consolation Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 6, 2013
By C Miller
Administrator
Mar 3, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This route has some good jamming on it and while nearby Whodunit is swarming with climbers this route often sits vacant. Possible to do in 4 rope-stretching pitches with a 60 meter rope, although this means not using some of the nice belay ledges found on the route.

Continuing straight up on the last pitch, instead of cutting left to join Whodunit (like the guidebook shows), takes you over a strenuous roof (5.10-) and ends at a convenient two bolt anchor.
By The Gray Tradster
Sep 10, 2006

This is as good a climb as Whodunit in almost all respects, especially if you start at the base of the buttress in the middle of the recess and do the first pitch or two of Constellation (5.8 or so)avoiding the first easy scrambling pitches.

The crux is an unusual crack configuration I've never seen anywhere else.
By Adam Kimmerly
Jun 2, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Reading the above comment, I started on Constellation and climbed up the slabby buttress, belaying on a ledge below the slabby face with a solitary bolt. Fun climbing and a nice alternative to the Consolation start.

I decided to give the slab above a shot and ended up taking a 20' winger onto the bolt, blowing off just a move or two from the top. On my second go, I just traversed right to easier ground and then up.

My partner and I felt the left facing corner of the second pitch (5.8 in the guide) felt slightly harder than the twin cracks that are indicated as the crux . The jams were just so good in the twin cracks (reminiscent of "Thumbs Down Left" in JTree) that it just didn't seem that hard.
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Aug 14, 2007

I agree with Adam, P2 is harder than 5.8, and sustained! P3 crux is an awesome and unusual double crack. Bring your best jam game people, this one's pretty burly. I had a much easier time on Human Fright.
By Bruce Diffenbaugh
From: Cheyenne,Wyoming
Feb 12, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Every year I end-up soloing this route for one reason or another (Partner didn't show up)and every year I find gear left on it.Wires, nuts, cams, you name it.Once I found a whole pitch worth of gear about ten pieces or more all with runners and beaners Just like someone pulled down their rope and left everything.So if going to lead this route and leave all your gear for me.Let me thank you in advance.I do appreciate it. :)
By Ryan Kelly
From: work.
Jul 7, 2008

A whole pitch worth of gear? Sounds like an accident. I hope you made an effort to find out what the situation was.
By Mar' Himmerich
From: Santa Fe, NM
Aug 25, 2008

Probably my favorite route on the N/W recess.
By scottydo
From: ventura, ca
Jun 7, 2009

This route is great if some one is already on Whodunnit or Long's Crack. Can be done in 5 pitches but I did it in 7 due to rope drag. (added two mini pitches) Great hand jams on this route and when the jams run out there's nice little holds. Defnitely worth doing. Joins up with Whodunnit or Long's Crack.(also, watch out for some loose blocks up there)
By ChugachMan
Aug 10, 2009

Probably my new favourite route on the NW recess. Did in 5 pitches, with comfy belays, and the straight up Long finish (not going right as the guidebook says). I think what is the crux pitch is largely dependent on hand size - but either way never get's harder than 5.9.
By Jesse Davidson
From: san diego, ca
Sep 4, 2009

We did it by doing the 10b crack/bolted route to the left of wong... nice start to a great climb. I loved the simultaneously left and right facing corner!
By jered
Sep 4, 2009

Does anyone know what time this route may go into the shade or when the best time to get on it when it's HOT may be?
Thanks
By Luke Stefurak
From: Seattle, WA
Sep 28, 2009

Did this route over the weekend and it was Awesome! Endless fun jamming with a few interesting cruxes.

This can be climbed in three pitches if you are willing to solo the first ~250 feet of 4th class and 5.0 to a good ledge.

From the first ledge next to a tree, with a red rope rap station and below a set of double cracks, go ~62 meters to a wide sloping ledge on the right below a small roof. Belay here.

Next climb ~68 meters past the double crack crux and then trend right to a cool right facing roof feature. Pull this at 5.9 and then belay on a nice ledge. Make sure to manage rope drag since this is a stretcher.

The last pitch is only around 40 meters and I trended right up a hand crack in a flare and then up a chimney with a fun pull on jugs to get on the upper slab.
By Jeff Dunbar
From: Carrboro, NC
Jun 6, 2010

Consolation is a great climb, but I just want to cast one more vote for the alternative start via P1-2 of Constellation. Did this yesterday and it was awesome - an excellent way to add some extra spice (and ~200 ft of quality climbing) to an already great route.

P.S. If you try this variation, the guidebook says to go left (around the corner to a crack) at the solitary bolt. That worked well for me!
By Sean
From: Oak Park, CA
Jul 30, 2010

Fun jamming going over a number of small roofs. Used doubles up to #3 Blue Camalots. We did the 165' first pitch of Constellation, then able to link P2 and P3 of Consolation with a 70 m rope all the way up the dihedral to the big slopey ledge with an approx 210' pitch, then linked P4 (the 5.9 pitch) and P5 for approx 150' to traverse up and left to Whodunit. After that, a 180' pitch to one of the Whodunit belays at a small ledge before the upper roof, and then a 200' pitch got us to the top. The loose blocks on P3 of Consolation are just sitting there on the face, but easy enough to maneuver past; also much loose rock on the traverse left to Whodunit, but across easy terrain.
By fossana
From: Bishop, CA
Oct 10, 2010

Fun climb. I brought double #1-3 Camalots, but didn't think the second #3 was necessary. My hands are smaller but I didn't have any problems getting good hand jams the whole way. The crux felt harder than Open Book.
By Stormeh
Jul 23, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

A good route with a hard crux. I thought placing gear at the top of the double cracks was the real crux, as it's pumpy and tiring to place from the admittedly good jams.

After the third pitch went right-ish to try to join the Long Climb. This is my 2nd time on the upper half of the Long Climb and I still couldn't find the "downward pointing flake." I climbed around broken terrain finally ending up on top of a block with faded green rap slings around it. From here I traversed almost exactly right to more broken terrain and the summit. Anyone have any ideas on how to get to the crux of the Long Climb? I obviously need help. lol.

Anyway, the Consolation is fun but not remotely sustained except for P2. Next time I'll consider starting on Constellation as others suggested, and possibly finishing on Whodunit.
By Tom Fralich
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 22, 2012

Harder and not as good as Whodunit. Placing gear on the crux pitch is definitely strenuous.
By T.J. Esposito
From: San Diego, CA
Jul 2, 2012

We finished this by doing these two pitches, highly recommended:

1: from the dead tree belay on Long Climb (end of The Consolation) going across the PG13 slab left and up as per Long, then continuing to trend up and left not quite hitting Whodunit... just follow all the cool cracks. Full 60m pitch (prob had 5 feet of rope left). You'll belay in an uncomfortable little chimney/cave with the anchor consisting of nuts or the smallest C3s. The last 15 feet are a cool steep flared crack with just enough solid jams, 10a maybe? Belay is below an obvious roof with a finger-sized crack splitting it, with lots of exfoliated visors to the left of it, 30-40 feet right of Whodunit.

2: Head up a pillar feature with tricky feet, place some gear and pull the roof, 10b? Run up the ramp to the top and set a belay.

This is probably part of another climb, as there chalked holds but I haven't yet consulted the topo to check it out.

Also, if you are thinking about doing P2 of Snakes on Everything (10a variation from the big ledge belay, guide says it's good), I'm not sure we went up the correct crack (first crack about 15' right of the main line?) but the crack we went up was a total mess. Crumbly rock, loose features, and everything had the thickest, most disgusting coating of lichen that made for miserable hands and feet... and shoes filled with crusty shredded lichen.
By JSlack
Aug 27, 2012

After three pitches, rather than head left and finish on Whodunit we climbed up and slightly right for one junky pitch (~100ft). We belayed on a nice ledge from which I found a stellar fingertips-layback to steep hands pitch (9+/10-). From the top of this we trended a bit further right and finished up on Long Climb I believe. I highly recommend this as the tips-layback pitch was the best on the climb. I would love to know what climb that pitch belongs to.
By Jan Tarculas
From: Riverside, Ca
Oct 6, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I will probably add this beta to create a new route here on MP since it seems to be a different finish than what is posted here.

I believe we did the first 3 pitches of Consolation then finished on Consolation Direct 5.10a/b in 4 long pitches using a 70m rope. Rope stretcher so bring 12-13 slings and doubles in .5-3 with set of nuts.

Pitch 1: Did the 5.8 start on The Constellation as per what was recommended here by other climbers. Climb the slab/crack to right of the slab for good gear placement. Belay at a large bushy ledge with large block on it. I used .4-.75 C4 in a crack behind a tiny tree/bush.

Pitch 2: (combined pitched of 2/3 of Consolation) Can be combined with 70 meter rope and only had about 5-10 feet of rope left. Bring extra slings 12-13. We only had 10 and created rope drag at the top. Climb up a left facing dihedral passing the crux on Consolation 5.9 to a comfy ledge for next belay. Used a #3 C4 here to protect crux

Pitch 3: From belay head straight up a steep section which protects easily to reach a corner with double cracks. Guide books gives this double crack section 5.9 but felt harder than the 5.10a/b pitches above. Also did Human Fright after this and this double crack felt harder than that route. After passing this section you will be able to see the dead tree to the right where a belay station for Wong-Long climb is. Also a dead tree with multiple slings attached to it. Keep climbing up and slightly left on easy ground climbing over large blocks and flakes to a really nice belay ledge with bushy area about 5 feet left of it.

Pitch 4: Rope stretcher using a 70 meter to very top of tahquitz. From belay head straight up where it looks to be hard climbing but probably goes at 5.7/5.8 with hidden jugs above the corner. Continue slight right then straight up passing a 5.10 crack to easy ground. (Favorite part of the route) Continue straight up and pass a small roof 5.10a/b (crux of Consolation Direct) to top of tahqutiz for gear placement for belay. Did not see a two bolt anchor per what C Miller describes.