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Unsorted Routes:

The Consideration 

Hueco: V4 Font: 6B

   
Type:  Boulder
Consensus:  Hueco: V4- Font: 6B [details]
FA: Pat Ament
Page Views: 5,066
Submitted By: Patrick Vernon on Jan 1, 2001

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From a different angle.

Description 

Begin on the good hole on Contemplation, use this for your left hand and make a big move up to a good large edge. From here, cross over with the left hand to a bad crimp, rearrange your feet, and make a committing throw out right to a good, left-trending rail. This is a good classic problem.

Protection 

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Photos of The Consideration Slideshow Add Photo
Ian making the big first move.
BETA PHOTO: Ian making the big first move.
...hit the rail, and around the corner.  consider ...
BETA PHOTO: ...hit the rail, and around the corner. consider ...
To the crimp...
BETA PHOTO: To the crimp...

Comments on The Consideration Add Comment
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By pfwein
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 21, 2009

Someone should add Reverse Consideration: I'll try to do that when I take a camera there. Basically you go up to the first ledge with your left hand, and then directly to the "left trending rail" with your right hand. You don't use what is described as the bad crimp. Getting your feet arranged properly is important.
By pfwein
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 22, 2009

Chip, my description was from an old timer, and it is a high quality problem as I describe it (I have done it, although not today). It's interesting that your guide doesn't seem to have the problem I describe: maybe I'm just not reading your guide right. I'd like to know the correct name, as it's a great problem, IMHO.
Peter W

Edit: What I describe is the same as "True Consideration" on Chip Phillips' website, except that you don't match on the "crimp rail," you go directly to it with your left hand. Getting established to attempt the final throw is not easy (at least for me). Upon further reflection, I don't recall that the old timer described this as "Reverse Consideration," that was probably my (mis)interpretation, so I humbly withdraw my mild challenge to Chip Philips.
By Chip Phillips
From: Broomfield, CO
Nov 22, 2009

pfwein - I deleted my previous post, since you've clarified yours.

You will know if you do Reverse Consideration. Switch the hands in the first beta photo above and you've got it. It's a completely ridiculous contortionist crossover that is really fun and made possible by perfectly placed feet. Match and throw to the lip. It's also got some cool history, being a Holloway problem.

True Consideration is thought to be the original way The Consideration was climbed ... without the small LH crimp to assist in attaining the lip.

Later.
By Chip Phillips
From: Broomfield, CO
Nov 22, 2009

FWIW, the name of this problem is "The Consideration" ... NOT "Consideration."
By John Tex
From: My camper, CO
May 12, 2013

Maybe I'm crazy, but I have not found any beta for this route that matches my own. I do not think I was on a different problem ,because I can see an undercling that I used in the picture. I move out to the very deep pocket/jug and make a fairly big move to the good hold. I then bring my left hand into the undercling which in the route photo is about 8 inches up and right from his left hand without hardly any chalk on it. It just looks like a deep shadow and is a pretty good hold. I then go all the way out to the rail with my right and top out. It is a good stretch, and I am almost 5'11, but if you go for the right spot, a shorter person could do this. Only reason I am adding this much on this problem is that I felt the big move was extremely fun and the most logical way to climb it (and I don't think it warrant its own route) :)
By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Jun 6, 2013

mountainproject.com/v/moderate...