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Conn Diagonal 
Conn Diagonal Variation, The 
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The Conn Diagonal Variation 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

Type: Trad, 3 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
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Page Views: 480
Submitted By: jon jugenheimer on Sep 17, 2010
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This route starts in the chimney to the left of the face that the original route starts on. Start in the chimney with two variations. (1) climb up the chimney and through to the south side of the outer outlet. Turn the corner and climb an offwidth chimney or a chimney with a layback crack in the left wall to get below a chockstone. Go under the chockstone through a "worm hole" like found on spire 4, but much bigger. Belay from the ledge 5 meters above the stone. (2) From the ground, climb up the chimney and head slightly right to gain the top ledges of the chimney on the right. Belay from here.
Pitch two starts with a Traverse right around the corner (exposure starts) to gain the entire Conn traverse ledge. This is the crux of the route. Gain the ledge and "climb" to the two bolt belay that it the top of pitch one of the original route. Expect some rope drag and one suspect fixed wire on the pitch. Climb pitch two of the original route as pitch three of the variation. You can make it to 5 meters below the top of the outer outlet with a 60M rope from the two bolt belay, even climbing the 5.8 hand crack on the right wall of the third pitch of the original route, to make a really good finish!


Start in the chimney left and downhill 30 meters from the start of the original route.


Rack to a #4 C4. no doubles needed. Bring long slings for pitch three, and a long sleeve shirt and pants for pitch two!

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