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The Compound

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
3-2-1 S 
911 S 
Ben sent S 
Bollocks S 
Butt Crack  S 
Close Quarters Combat S 
Cracker S 
Cyanide Suicide S 
Death From Above S 
Def-Con 1 S 
GI Joe Kung Fu Grip S 
Gitmo S 
Gorilla Warfare S 
Gun Tower S 
Hammerhead S 
Mr. Hanky S 
Neptune's Spear S 
One percent S 
Silent but Deadly S 
Special Forces S 
Vote with a Bullet  S 

The Compound Rock Climbing 

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Page Views: 2,813
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Taylor Roy on Jul 8, 2012
This Afternoon

25° | 11°

23° | 8°

32° | 10°

35° | 14°

40° | 17°

44° | 21°
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The Compound is a steep, North facing crag with about 20 routes between 5.11 and 5.14.

Since the cave has a large shelf at half height most of the routes stop at about 60 feet. The routes are the perfect middle ground between the intensely bouldery stuff found in Box Canyon, and the mega pumpy endurance fests at the Pipe Dream.

Like most areas at Maple, this area is still cleaning up, so don't stand below people when they are climbing.

Getting There 

If you don't have a 4 wheel drive car, park at the top of the groomed Canyon Road near the Right Fork trail and continue up the semi-steep, rough Canyon Road another 15 minutes until you reach a sharp left and then a sharp right turn. After the right turn you will see an obvious trail on your left that leads up a dirt slope. Follow this trail for 5 minutes to the base of the Compound. If you have a 4 wheel drive car, you can drive all the way to the small trail that cuts off the main road.

This road has very little shade. So be ready to suffer in the sun if you visit in the Summer.

Climbing Season

For the Maple Canyon Road area.

Weather station 5.5 miles from here

21 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in The Compound

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Compound:
One percent   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport   
GI Joe Kung Fu Grip   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Gun Tower   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
3-2-1   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
911   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Death From Above   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Sport, 80'   
Neptune's Spear   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Sport, 60'   
Special Forces   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Compound

Featured Route For The Compound
Rock Climbing Photo: Special Forces is the middle line that starts just...

Special Forces 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c  UT : Maple Canyon : ... : The Compound
This is a really fun route with a hard clip and an intense roof crux to a very pumpy headwall.Start with some steep straight forward 5.11 climbing to a nice jug at 20 feet. Make a tough clip, and muscle through a very steep roof crux on underclings and sidepulls to a good rail at the lip of the roof. A few strangely hard pulls on some awkward holds gets you to another rest. Hold it together on the extended final crux and then follow good holds to the anchor. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of The Compound Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Unknown climber on 3-2-1.
Unknown climber on 3-2-1.
Rock Climbing Photo: The Compound.
The Compound.
Rock Climbing Photo: Yup, it's steep
Yup, it's steep
Rock Climbing Photo: The Compound.
The Compound.
Rock Climbing Photo: Right end of The Compound.
Right end of The Compound.

Comments on The Compound Add Comment
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By Taylor Roy
From: Boulder, Co
Jul 8, 2012
An old topo can be found at:

#6 is Neptune's Spear.
By Spencer Anderson
From: Fort Collins, CO
Aug 17, 2012
Guide book doesn't mention it but needing 4WD or AWD is no joke. The road is way too lose.
Aug 27, 2012
#6 on the topo link is called Death from Above. It climbs straight up and links into Nine-11 and finishes on those anchors.Neptune Spear was bolted in 2011 and is immediately left of Death from above.
Neptune spear finishes on Gun Tower. For fun, you can take Neptune Spear & finish on Nine-11.
By Luke Bertelsen
Jun 4, 2014
Just a heads up..... Of course it is any climber's responsibility to check out fixed hardware if they are using it. We removed two very sharp half worn through fixed draws off of first bolts today. Take a look at what you are climbing on before you trust it with your life. The crag in general could use an upgrade if fixed gear is going to be the norm.

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