Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Compound

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
3-2-1 
911 
Gorilla Warfare 
Gun Tower 
Neptune's Spear 
Not named yet 
One percent 
Special Forces 

The Compound 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Page Views: 1,167
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Taylor Roy on Jul 8, 2012
Good Page?0 people like this page. Your opinion:   
You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area Add Route | Add Photo | Add Comment | Add Event
Know the location? Show us! We need it for cool new features!
Wed Thu Fri Sat Sun
Clear
42° | 28°
Partly Cloudy
60° | 39°
Overcast
59° | 38°
Snow
41° | 28°
Partly Cloudy
46° | 29°
Right end of The Compound.

Description 

The Compound is a steep, North facing crag with about 20 routes between 5.11 and 5.14.

Since the cave has a large shelf at half height most of the routes stop at about 60 feet. The routes are the perfect middle ground between the intensely bouldery stuff found in Box Canyon, and the mega pumpy endurance fests at the Pipe Dream.

Like most areas at Maple, this area is still cleaning up, so don't stand below people when they are climbing.


Getting There 

If you don't have a 4 wheel drive car, park at the top of the groomed Canyon Road near the Right Fork trail and continue up the semi-steep, rough Canyon Road another 15 minutes until you reach a sharp left and then a sharp right turn. After the right turn you will see an obvious trail on your left that leads up a dirt slope. Follow this trail for 5 minutes to the base of the Compound. If you have a 4 wheel drive car, you can drive all the way to the small trail that cuts off the main road.

This road has very little shade. So be ready to suffer in the sun if you visit in the Summer.


8 Total Routes


['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',1],['5.12',1],['5.13',5],['>=5.14',1],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Compound:
One percent   5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a     Sport   
Gun Tower   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
3-2-1   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
911   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Browse More Classics in The Compound

Featured Route For The Compound
3-2-1 is on the face to right of the crack.

3-2-1 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ E6 6c  UT : Maple Canyon : ... : The Compound
Much harder than it looks, 3-2-1 climbs a very featured, slightly overhanging wall on the right end of the Compound. Expect some hard clips, no great rests, and disappointing holds from top to bottom.Climb an easy ramp to the base of the wall and reach up to some very large cobbles to get established on the route. Grunt past some hard thin moves, and a difficult low clip, and then motor through an endless series of poor holds, and big moves to the top. Some people use kneebars....[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of The Compound Slideshow Add Photo
The Compound.
The Compound.
The Compound.
The Compound.
Yup, it's steep
Yup, it's steep
Comments on The Compound Add Comment
Show which comments
By Taylor Roy
From: Boulder, Co
Jul 8, 2012

An old topo can be found at:

www.rockclimbing.com/photos/Topo/Compound_Topo_16841.html

#6 is Neptune's Spear.

By Spencer Anderson
From: Fort Collins, CO
Aug 17, 2012

Guide book doesn't mention it but needing 4WD or AWD is no joke. The road is way too lose.

By SMR
Aug 27, 2012

#6 on the topo link is called Death from Above. It climbs straight up and links into Nine-11 and finishes on those anchors.Neptune Spear was bolted in 2011 and is immediately left of Death from above.
Neptune spear finishes on Gun Tower. For fun, you can take Neptune Spear & finish on Nine-11.