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The Compound
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3-2-1 
911 
Gorilla Warfare 
Gun Tower 
Neptune's Spear 
Not named yet 
One percent 
Special Forces 

The Compound 


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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Taylor Roy on Jul 8, 2012

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The Compound.

Description 

The Compound is a steep, North facing crag with about 20 routes between 5.11 and 5.14.

Since the cave has a large shelf at half height most of the routes stop at about 60 feet. The routes are the perfect middle ground between the intensely bouldery stuff found in Box Canyon, and the mega pumpy endurance fests at the Pipe Dream.

Like most areas at Maple, this area is still cleaning up, so don't stand below people when they are climbing.


Getting There 

If you don't have a 4 wheel drive car, park at the top of the groomed Canyon Road near the Right Fork trail and continue up the semi-steep, rough Canyon Road another 15 minutes until you reach a sharp left and then a sharp right turn. After the right turn you will see an obvious trail on your left that leads up a dirt slope. Follow this trail for 5 minutes to the base of the Compound. If you have a 4 wheel drive car, you can drive all the way to the small trail that cuts off the main road.

This road has very little shade. So be ready to suffer in the sun if you visit in the Summer.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Compound:
Gun Tower   5.12c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   
3-2-1   5.13a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   
911   5.13a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
Special Forces   5.13b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
Neptune's Spear   5.13b     Sport, 60 feet   
Browse More Classics in The Compound

Featured Route For The Compound
3-2-1 is on the face to right of the crack.

3-2-1 5.13a  UT : Maple Canyon : ... : The Compound
Much harder than it looks, 3-2-1 climbs a very featured, slightly overhanging wall on the right end of the Compound. Expect some hard clips, no great rests, and disappointing holds from top to bottom.Climb an easy ramp to the base of the wall and reach up to some very large cobbles to get established on the route. Grunt past some hard thin moves, and a difficult low clip, and then motor through an endless series of poor holds, and big moves to the top. Some people use kneebars....[more]   Browse More Classics in UT


Photos of The Compound Slideshow Add Photo
The Compound.

The Compound.

Right end of The Compound.

Right end of The Compound.

Yup, it's steep

Yup, it's steep


Comments on The Compound Add Comment
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By Taylor Roy
From: Boulder, Co
Jul 8, 2012

An old topo can be found at:

www.rockclimbing.com/photos/Topo/Compound_Topo_16841.html

#6 is Neptune's Spear.

By Spencer Anderson
From: Fort Collins, CO
Aug 17, 2012

Guide book doesn't mention it but needing 4WD or AWD is no joke. The road is way too lose.

By SMR
Aug 27, 2012

#6 on the topo link is called Death from Above. It climbs straight up and links into Nine-11 and finishes on those anchors.Neptune Spear was bolted in 2011 and is immediately left of Death from above.
Neptune spear finishes on Gun Tower. For fun, you can take Neptune Spear & finish on Nine-11.