All Locations > Oregon > Central Oregon > Trout Creek > Main Wall

The Compleat Angler

Name: The Compleat Angler
Rating: 4.0

5.13- YDS 7c+ French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 29 ZA E7 6c British

Routes in The Main Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Adipose T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Aerie Interlude T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Alchemy T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Approach, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Bushwhacker T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	California Weakender T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Chinese Chicken T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Community Pillars T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Compleat Angler, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
	Dame El Oro T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Diminishing Returns T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Double Trouble T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Double Trouble Extension T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Electric Chair T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Fall Line T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
	Fingerlings T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Fire and Sage T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Fissuremen T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Flying with Goldens T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
	Full Clip T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Fun Soup T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Gateway T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Geologic Time T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Gold Rush T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Guillotine, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Hip to Toe T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Holding the Line T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a R
	Horse With No Name T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Ideal Schedule, The T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
	Immortal Illusions T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
	JR Token T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Landing a Monster T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Long March, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Lou Dog T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Main Stream T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13
	Main Wall \| 6624, The T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Martian Chronicles, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	May Fly, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Midas Touch T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Monster T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Mr. Squiggles T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Muffin Top T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Out of the Question T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
	Out Ridin' Fences T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Pan Handlin' T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Pumphouse Park T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Purple Pinky Eater T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Question Air Box, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
	Redd Alert T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Redside T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Reservation Blues T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Rightway T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	River Wide, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Rocinante T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
	Shadow Casting T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R
	Shushaynsh T,TR 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a PG13
	Slim Pickens T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Space Between, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Space Mission T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Steelhead T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Straightway T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Suzuki T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Tawtnuk Tiicham (Medicine Land) T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Time Bomb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	True Grit T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13
	Two Step Left T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Two Step Right T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Unknown 1 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Unknown 2 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Unknown 3 AKA: Wally's Warm Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Unknown 4 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Wengerbanger T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Winter Sustenance T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Wondertwins T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

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Type:	Trad, 55 ft (17 m)
GPS:	44.80197, -121.10859
FA:	Max Tepfer, 10/10/2014
Page Views:	4,067 total · 30/month
Shared By:	Max Tepfer on Oct 10, 2014
Admins:	Kevin Piarulli, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball Page Updates (admin only)

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure/Private Land Boundaries Details

SEASONAL RAPTOR CLOSURE TAKES EFFECT JAN 15 EACH YEAR. Climbers have demonstrated 100% compliance rate and must continue. Violators are subject to a ticket and fine. The BLM will be monitoring the territory, which includes all of the crags and the approach trails. The closure could be partially lifted May 15th, depending on the nesting scenarios.

blm.gov/or/districts/prinev…

blm.gov/or/districts/prinev…

ADJACENT PRIVATE LAND

Please respect adjacent private landowners. While the climbing area is mainly BLM, a portion of the cliff and access may be on private property. However the entirety of the Main Wall is public with a solid buffer of space before the boundary, so you are allowed to access up above that wall. Please be aware of the rest of the private land above the cliff though. Local climbers have established a positive relationship with the adjacent private property owners and it is important to maintain their trust for long-term access.

Description

This route is short. Aside from that, there's not much else to complain about. Sustained, technical cruxes, near-perfect rock, and beautiful positions highlight this classic line. The movement on this is completely atypical to your standard Trout Creek crack climb.

Begin with hyper-technical stemming and liebacking between a narrow off-set and a shallow dihedral. After pulling onto a decent stance at mid height, get back what you can before firing off a slightly harder mirror image of the Mayfly's crux lieback. From here it's only another 10' of .12- on sequential, flaring fingerlocks to the jug. Finish by mantling onto the jug and climbing up and left on positive holds to the chains. (the last sequence is a tad contrived due to the anchor location, but is a more aesthetic and classic finish that avoids moderate climbing on a big suspect block out right)