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Pear and Apple
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A Farewell to Arms 
Commanche, The 
Pear and Apple Route 
Science Friction 
Superpseud omasochisticexpeealodochous 
To Steep For Sheep 

The Commanche 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 400'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a [details]
FA: unknown
Season: Cooler in the morning, but anytime.
Page Views: 457
Submitted By: Jon Wood on May 16, 2011
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Water Streak in the background, 'The Commanche'
  • This area is designated as Charon's Gardens Wilderness Area MORE INFO >>>
  • Access is always an issue here. MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Take the trail from Sunset to the Pear and Apple boulder field. Hop a few boulders to the west side of the field. Follow the trail south a bit, take the side trail that heads under the boulder field. Follow the cave system to the east making your way to the top of the boulders and up to the walls below Pear and Apple. I'm sure there's an easier way to get to this climb, but this way is soooo much more fun. Follow the low angle water streak up to a bowled out area, continue up right and follow the natural moves. We did this route free-solo barefoot. The route is solid but leaves you feeling very exposed. Most of the climb is a scramble, but there are a few moves that felt like a 5.6 and one at the top that almost felt like a 5.7, but probably only felt that way because we had no shoes and it had just rained an hour before.


    Location 

    Low angle water streak North of Pear and Apple


    Protection 

    I'm sure there's some spots for a piece or two, but you won't need it. This route is a great solo.



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