Climb Devo, 5.8, until the corner meets the roof. Place gear in the corner, find a jug in the roof, and pop out the roof to a sloper. Heel hook up and over following a runout east face to a second, higher roof, staying left of Roof's Way up there.
This is the obvious roof problem that busts out right from Devo once you get to the roof.
The crux and the crux gear in the corner.
After the crux.
The fun face above.
|Comments on The Comeback Arete
Mar 26, 2013
This route also can be climbed without the roofs.
Start up Devo, branch right on 1st obvious crack heading out to arete. Climb arete, and pull overhang/crack/flake/lichen straight above.
I have a tree and rock anchored with cord/biners for lowering.
5.8 WAC Arete (what we called this before knowing it had been climbed with the roofs out on the right sides of the arete).
Mar 27, 2013
Nice, Cor! Cool spot... I originally rope soloed it the way you described then realized there was a hold in the roof. Fun either way!