When we did this route we started up a scratchy wide crack just to the start of the Machine. From there easy climbing to a good belay ledge. Thin climbing up into fat awesome ice with some really neat caves and steep sections. Always a good rest when you need one.
Between Welcome to the Machine and Dracula.
Screws and a few rock pieces.
Feb 28, 2014
There are several ways to gain the upper, yellow ice. L to R: The scrappy chimney mentioned above by nhclimber (protects well with small-medium cams and good fun), a thin ice groove (with shrubbery) up the front of the buttress, or a delicate tiptoe past small trees way over by Dracula. The upper ice is wide, several independent lines are possible.