The Cobra 

This sick tower gets my vote as "most likely to fall down in the next 10 years". What is holding it up?

Why climb the Cobra? Because it shouldn't still be there.

You need a little over 10 feet of sling to tie off the neck of the Cobra below the fixed pin; I used a long cordelette. This is key protection and makes clipping the fixed pin above just mildly unnerving.

The rack for me consisted of an orange TCU and #2 camalot, but would they hold a fall? I guarantee it wouldn't. Please be considerate of you life saving belayer and don't hit him in the head with those huge stones half way up.....oooops! Clipping the pin is easier on the left of the pin, but surpassing the pin goes to the right, IMO. I love those roof jugs!

The only piece of worthwhile gear on this route is the 10 ft sling around the neck (so bring it!). I brought a couple large cams but didn't bother placing them since the rock in that section is of the horrible kitty litter/coblestone variety. The 'bolt' looks pretty bad, but I'm sure its taken some falls since the crux move is pretty tricky.

This tower is good spicy fun, despite its short length. Clipping the pin is hard, moving past the pin even harder. You might want a screamer for the pin particularly if you don't girth hitch the tower. The last moves are easy if steep rock is your thing, and comparatively well protected with cams beneath the caprock. This is a very delicate tower with a not-so-relaxing summit!

A 3.5 Camalot or #4 C4 fits below the caprock for some peace of mind doing the final mantle.

Finally climbed this yesterday after coming off ancient art. Took a #3 up but didn't place it. Clipping the "bolt" was very insecure, especially since I didn't have any gear below it, not sure how folks under 6ft would do it. However, once you're in that finger lock just left of the bolt the holds seem to just get better and better. Very cool moves. Could use some new webbing up top, didn't have any with us, but anchor was pretty manky. Enjoy

Worth the time if you are in the Fishers, of course for the quintessential photo. We made the climb much easier, and fun, by stick clipping the piton from the good stance below. Pretty much unprotected until that point. We are not 5.11 R climbers, but were able to enjoy the moves (goes right to nice hands) and spectacular unusual summit. We left the stick in one of the chimneys on the front of the formation, for those Ancient Art climbers wishing to tackle another summit, like us.

you can get a BOMBER .5 camalot just left of the drilled angle in that left hand side-pull. It's a blind placement however, so place it, and really yank on it to make sure it'll hold if you blow it while clipping the angle. The summit moves are very easy so the #3 camalot isn't necessary. I nested a #1 and #2 camalot at the base of the neck to keep me from decking.

I watched a then 68 year old Czech climbing legend Petr Prachtal free solo and then down climb this route. Just about the most nerve racking I've ever witnessed. It was his first route ever on any type of North American sandstone.

This is a quick & fun climb, and pairs well with Ancient Art. Go ahead, climb it while you still can!

You can get a sling around part of the first ledge. But it should be a long sling. The gear is not very trustworthy on this climb. Do it before it falls! Awesome!

This is an incredibly inflated grade. The climb is certainly run out but 5.11, give me a break, the crux is V0 at best, protected by a bolt and littered with huge jugs. I placed a 10 stopper between two cobbles near the bottom of the neck. The climbing is rather boring, but the photos are great and is a good thing to check off your list if your in the area.

Did this 11/3/12 and found out that a 9 ft sling is not long enough to girth the neck. I had to extend it with a 2 ft runner. A #4 C4 does fit under the capstone, but a #2 would be a better piece.

If you climb the series of ledges that face Ancient Art you are basically doing a free solo with the only gear worth anything I could find being a questionable .75 C4 towards the backside on the first big sub ledge. If you climb the bigger crack that faces Sundial you can actually get some pro. Either way the moves are not too bad.

The crux moves are not littered with jugs; however, just as you pass the crux there are jugs to the summit. Technically .11a/b ranks in at the V0/1 range, so the above comment is true. However, these moves are no gimme.

super fun!!! i figure this thing has been standing for five million years (or five thousand, depending on what you believe), either way it's still probably going to be there next weekend. don't climb it because it's going to fall; climb it because it's fun. 5.9 A0 if ya pull on the draw.

This is not a gym climb. Be gentile with the soft desert rocks and conglomerates. I watched a 12-year-old-75-pounder scrape what must have been a pound of rock off of this thing (top rope). If you are unfamiliar with the soft nature of the soft rock in this area, maybe wait a few years for this one. Just one man's opinion.