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The Cliffs of Insanity

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Butter Cup 
Iocane Powder 
Princess Tried, The 
R.O.U.S. 
Six Fingered Man 
Unsorted Routes:

The Cliffs of Insanity 


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Page Views: 1,876
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Guy H. on Jan 12, 2009
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Here is a shot of the cliff, with Bert leading But...

Description 

The Cliffs of Insanity are located to the east of the Sentinel. There is a good mix of sport climbs in the 5.8-5.12 range. There is also a OW test piece that might chew you up and spit you out. (Prepare to Die, 5.10d) The SW face gets great late afternoon sun for those cold winter days. There is still little lichen on most routes due to the light traffic.

Giants and six fingered men have been known to hang out here, so be careful.


Getting There 

Park at a pullout on the left after 4.4 miles in the canyon (mile maker 28 6/10). Cross the river and hike towards the Sentinel for ~75 feet. Traverse east on an obivous ledge system below the Sentinel. Hike slowly up the hill until a trail below the cliff is gained. Ascend a 800 foot knotted rope to the top of the cliff.


5 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',3],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Cliffs of Insanity:
Butter Cup   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   
The Princess Tried   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Sport, 2 pitches, 150'   
Browse More Classics in The Cliffs of Insanity

Featured Route For The Cliffs of Insanity
Approximate bolt locations of Princess Tried, R.O.U.S. and Buttercup.   <br /> <br />Photo credit: Guy H., 2009.

The Princess Tried 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c  CO : Lyons : ... : The Cliffs of Insanity
P1. Start on a dirty stance (with a much-needed anchor bolt), and climb up the arete left of the slab. There is an awkward crux down low, then the difficulty tapers off slightly; move right of the arete, and move into a secondary crux before reaching anchor chains at 100 feet.P2. Belay from a very comfortable ledge. Start right of the anchors and use the pocket to clip a high first bolt, sidepull, and cross over the arete into a dirty channel. Move straight up into a gap and to the a...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

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