All Locations > California > Central Coast > Pinnacles NP > E Side > Discovery Wall

The Cleft

Name: The Cleft
Rating: 2.2

5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British

Routes in Discovery Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Between a Rock and a Hard Place S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Big Pucker, The T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
	Broken Arrow S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Broken Arrow (Direct) S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Buffalo Soldier T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Bye-Bye Fly-By T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Cleft, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Cosmos S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Dead Bird Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Entrance T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Fly By T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Forty Days of Rain T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Gladiator T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Holiday Ordeal TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Jorgie's Continuation T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
	Jorgie's Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Jorgie's On Crack T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Labor of Love T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Lithium S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Lost Horizons T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Mammary Pump S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Melvin S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Nailbox Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Ordeal T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Passover T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Pillbox Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Pistol Whipped S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
	Plague T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Portent T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
	Power Point S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
	Racing Stripes T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Roof, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
	Slot, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Straight Up T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Stupendous Man S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Swallow Crack T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Trauma T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Trial S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Verdict (direct), The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Wet Kiss, The S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Zippity Do Da S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

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Type:	Trad, 90 ft (27 m)
FA:	Jim Birdwell, Larry Kilmer, Mike Kilmer 3/1962
Page Views:	3,438 total · 19/month
Shared By:	Greg Blevins on Jun 21, 2009 · Updates
Admins:	andy patterson, Aron Quiter, Bruce Hildenbrand, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Always check this web page before you visit for current conditions and nesting closures:

Current Raptor Advisories for Pinnacles National Park nps.gov/pinn/planyourvisit/…
and
pinnacles.org/climbing_info…
Closures effective as of the day after Martin Luther King Day- July 3. Check closure website for details on closed areas.

SPECIAL NOTICE: due to nesting condors the Machete Ridge area may be closed, from Dos Equis / Corona on west face then west around the south side to The Hideout including the popular Old Original. Check the NPS and Friends of Pinnacles websites for further information.

Description

Pretty fun chimney which goes pretty straight up then out to the left for an easy but fairly runout slab/scramble up to the top. Decent rock with the crux being getting yourself through a narrower constriction in the chimney.

Location

Near the right hand end of Discovery Wall. Goes up the obvious chimney.

Protection

Two bolts. Takes standard set of hexs and nuts for further protection. Two bolts and hangers at top, but very far back from the edge. Bring slings to extend master point if top roping. No rappel rings, a walk-off is required.

There is a fixed pin very close to the first bolt which many climbers chose not to clip due to the proximity.