Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Hallett Peak - mixed/ice
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bullet T 
Cleft, The T 
East Ridge 
Englishman's Route 
Great Dihedral to Upper Buttress 
Hallett Chimney, AI5 M5 T 
Left of Cleft 
Slit, The T 
Tyndall Gully 
Unsorted Routes:

The Cleft 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c M4 Steep Snow R

   
Type:  Trad, Mixed, Snow, Alpine, 5 pitches, 600', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c M4 [details]
FA: ?????
Season: Winter/Spring
Page Views: 1,458
Submitted By: J. Fox on Jun 1, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [2 people like this page.]
Climbing out of the couloir on what we call P2, he...

Description 

This route starts on the north face of the east ridge/buttress of Hallett Peak. Above Emerald Lake, and about 100' east of Hallett Couloir, ascend a steep and narrow couloir for ~200' then turn climber's right up low 5th class terrain towards a cleft in the cliffs above.

When my partner and I climbed this, the rock section out of the couloir was pouring water. Climb the waterfall to the cleft for ~60m (We did it un-roped) and position yourself below the cleft chimney. You should be able to see an old pin halfway up the chimney.

This chimney is the 1st crux. Depending on what time of year you arrive, it could be ice/snow, or all rock. It was all rock at the end of May. Stem the chimney or whatever it takes to get up it. The rock is loose here. Move right out of the chimney and then climb another steeper pitch of snow for ~80m to a small roof/overhang.

Pull the roof and then climb a bit more snow. Move right and belay from another overhang. Circle around it and climb the final steep snow slopes to the blocky summit.

Location 

North face of the east ridge/buttress on Hallett Peak above Emerald Lake. ~100' east of Hallett Couloir. Descend via Hallett Couloir, or you can walk off the back and down to Lake Haiyaha if snow conditions in the descent couloir are too dangerous. Take the Lake Haiyaha trail back to Dream Lake.

Protection 

Standard mixed rack. Cams to BD C4 #2, selection of nuts. We used a 60m rope and had to simul up the steep snow on P3 some.

No anchors, only one old pin on P2.


Photos of The Cleft Slideshow Add Photo
Erik heading up through low 5th/M-easy ground towards the cleft. ~P2.
Erik heading up through low 5th/M-easy ground towa...
Descent route via Hallett Couloir.
Descent route via Hallett Couloir.
Erik gears up below the cleft chimney.  The pin is halfway up this pitch, below the roof.  Move right at the roof and into the next couloir.  This is P3 and is short.
BETA PHOTO: Erik gears up below the cleft chimney. The pin is...
P4 belay - the couloir can be seen angling down to the left.
P4 belay - the couloir can be seen angling down to...
Looking down P4 from the belay.
Looking down P4 from the belay.
Erik at the belay above the cleft pitch.
Erik at the belay above the cleft pitch.
Erik ascending the final snow to the ridge top. Pitch 5.
Erik ascending the final snow to the ridge top. Pi...
Jeff leading the upper couloir (p4 as listed). A short overhang caps this section.
Jeff leading the upper couloir (p4 as listed). A s...
Jeff kicking steps up initial couloir.
Jeff kicking steps up initial couloir.
Jeff climbing up the final snow slope.
Jeff climbing up the final snow slope.
The Cleft route breaks off from the couloir and takes a direct line through the notch above.  This section had running water when we climbed it, but I'm sure earlier in the season it would be great mixed ground.
The Cleft route breaks off from the couloir and ta...
Erik smiling and having fun on the route.  Just below the P3 crux cleft.
Erik smiling and having fun on the route. Just be...
Jeff exiting the waterfall section - a tad damp.
Jeff exiting the waterfall section - a tad damp.
Topo of how we pitched out the route.  First and last pitches in this photo are just snow climbing.  Photo by Dougald MacDonald, with embellishments by me.
BETA PHOTO: Topo of how we pitched out the route. First and l...

Comments on The Cleft Add Comment
Show which comments
By J. Fox
From: Black Hawk, CO
Jun 1, 2009

When Erik and I climbed this on 5/31/09, it was mostly snow and rock climbing/drytooling...no ice. Perhaps this route comes in better earlier when there might be ice on it. We climbed that water fall and thought it might form up some nice ice, or it could just all be snow.

The rock section was hard to grade since we climbed it in heavy mountaineering boots. Felt like 5.9 but I'm sure that's subjective since I was at altitude, wearing a large pack and climbing in big boots. YMMV.
By Eli Helmuth
From: Estes Park, CO
Jun 1, 2009

Fun seeing you guys up there yesterday.

For sure this route and the others were in good shape earlier in May, usually starting to get good by mid-April.

More info: climbinglife.com/alpine-routes...

Way to get it done!
By J. Fox
From: Black Hawk, CO
Jun 1, 2009

Thanks Eli! Nice meeting you as well.