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The Clan of the Cave Bear
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British R
Avg: 2.7 from 6 votes
Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches |
FA: | Bloom/Cosentino 200 |
Page Views: | 1,606 total · 13/month |
Shared By: | Ryan Z on May 13, 2014 |
Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
P1 - Climb the hands to wide hands to O/W splitter to the base of a chimney. Belay of off small cams and a #5. Fun Pitch! ~100ft (5.10)
P2 - Mantal the loose block, clip the bolt, Do some really fun exposed chimney moves, then work your way up a long chossy corner clipping another bolt at about 60ft. Pass that bolt continuing up until the only obvious climbing is to traverse left. Take a deep breath and fearlessly launch into the traversing choss fest through a 5.9 roof, R/X. Pull the roof and traverse left a short distance until you find a ledge with a poor gear anchor. ~170ft (5.9 R/X)
P3 - Continue to traverse left placing marginal gear until you get to an arete. Pop around the arete and hand traverse left until you can drop into a chimney. Belay off of a tree. ~50 feet (5.7 R)
Only the first pitch gets 2 stars. The 2nd and 3rd pitch are reserved for people with a very strange attraction to dangerous choss.
P2 - Mantal the loose block, clip the bolt, Do some really fun exposed chimney moves, then work your way up a long chossy corner clipping another bolt at about 60ft. Pass that bolt continuing up until the only obvious climbing is to traverse left. Take a deep breath and fearlessly launch into the traversing choss fest through a 5.9 roof, R/X. Pull the roof and traverse left a short distance until you find a ledge with a poor gear anchor. ~170ft (5.9 R/X)
P3 - Continue to traverse left placing marginal gear until you get to an arete. Pop around the arete and hand traverse left until you can drop into a chimney. Belay off of a tree. ~50 feet (5.7 R)
Only the first pitch gets 2 stars. The 2nd and 3rd pitch are reserved for people with a very strange attraction to dangerous choss.
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