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The Citadel is one of the Organ's better known climbing spots. It is home to several well established routes in a wonderful secluded setting. Dennis Jackson's guide only highlights the best climbs on this formation. There is still lots of room for exploration.
From the Topp Hut continue along the 4x4 road until it forks. Take the left fork which ends abruptly at an old mine. The trail into Rabbit Ears Canyon starts behind the tailings from this mine and is easy to find and follow up to the base of Rabbit Ear Canyon. At the base of Rabbit Ear Canyon, the Lambda Wall is set back to your left and Rabbit Ears Slabs are on the right. The Citadel is the steeper formation ahead on the right. Follow up the canyon over some more difficult terrain.
13 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in The Citadel
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Citadel:
West Ridge 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b Trad, 4 pitches, 650'
Clem's Folly 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b Trad, 3 pitches, 400'
Murray's Crack 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, 120'
Wish You Were Here 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Glad We Came 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 145'
The Nose 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 140'
Finger Zinger 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b PG13 Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Featured Route For The Citadel
Stem Cell Research 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b NM : Organ Mountains : ... : The Citadel
A moderate off-width and chimney line starting ten feet left of Murray's Crack. It looks harder than what it is from the ground, but it is still very real up there. Getting established in the crack is not difficult (5.7-5.8), with one new bolt protecting the first 20 feet. Past that, there are placements deeper inside the crack and as you go up there's a chock stone that can be used for protection as well. Two finishes are possible at the top of the chimney:- The original route does a short trav...[more] Browse More Classics in NM
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