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The Citadel is one of the Organ's better known climbing spots. It is home to several well established routes in a wonderful secluded setting. Dennis Jackson's guide only highlights the best climbs on this formation. There is still lots of room for exploration.
From the Topp Hut continue along the 4x4 road until it forks. Take the left fork which ends abruptly at an old mine. The trail into Rabbit Ears Canyon starts behind the tailings from this mine and is easy to find and follow up to the base of Rabbit Ear Canyon. At the base of Rabbit Ear Canyon, the Lambda Wall is set back to your left and Rabbit Ears Slabs are on the right. The Citadel is the steeper formation ahead on the right. Follow up the canyon over some more difficult terrain.
13 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in The Citadel
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Citadel:
West Ridge 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, 4 pitches, 650'
Clem's Folly 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 3 pitches, 400'
Murray's Crack 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 120'
Wish You Were Here 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Glad We Came 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 145'
The Nose 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, 140'
Finger Zinger 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Featured Route For The Citadel
Finger Zinger 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 NM : Organ Mountains : ... : The Citadel
Described as "classic Organ's friction" this climb definitely delivers. It has been re-bolted in recent years making it safer although still a bold lead. Don't expect edges larger than 1/8" for most of the climb. Start by climbing 12' to gain a narrow ledge. traverse right about 20' and clip the first bolt nearly 35' off the deck. While this may seem daunting, the traverse is easy 5th class. From here, enjoy razor edges and thin friction the whole way up. Moving into a shallow corner system to t...[more] Browse More Classics in NM
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