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The Citadel is one of the Organ's better known climbing spots. It is home to several well established routes in a wonderful secluded setting. Dennis Jackson's guide only highlights the best climbs on this formation. There is still lots of room for exploration.
From the Topp Hut continue along the 4x4 road until it forks. Take the left fork which ends abruptly at an old mine. The trail into Rabbit Ears Canyon starts behind the tailings from this mine and is easy to find and follow up to the base of Rabbit Ear Canyon. At the base of Rabbit Ear Canyon, the Lambda Wall is set back to your left and Rabbit Ears Slabs are on the right. The Citadel is the steeper formation ahead on the right. Follow up the canyon over some more difficult terrain.
13 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in The Citadel
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Citadel:
West Ridge 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b Trad, 4 pitches, 650'
Clem's Folly 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b Trad, 3 pitches, 400'
Murray's Crack 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, 120'
Wish You Were Here 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Glad We Came 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 145'
Arch Rival 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 2 pitches
The Nose 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 140'
Finger Zinger 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b PG13 Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Featured Route For The Citadel
The Nose 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a NM : Organ Mountains : ... : The Citadel
A stand-out crack on the lower NW prow of the Citadel. This pitch makes an excellent start to the NW ridge route. The crux is the clean, slightly leaning crack, which requires a thin hands/finger sized move to gain a small ledge. Ignore the poot slings on the ledge and continue up the crack system on steep but easier face climbing. The angle then eases up and you can belay anywhere on the spacious ledge which is also the top of Finger Zinger....[more] Browse More Classics in NM
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