The Citadel is one of the Organ's better known climbing spots. It is home to several well established routes, and a wonderful secluded setting. Dennis Jackson's guide only highlights the best climbs on this formation and there is still lots of room for exploration.
From the Topp Hut continue along the 4x4 rd until it forks. Take the left fork which ends abruptly at an old mine. The trail into Rabbit Ears Canyon starts behind the tailings from this mine and is easy to find and follow up to the base of Rabbit Ear Canyon. At the base of Rabbit Ear Canyon, the Lambda Wall is directly to your left and the Citadel is straight ahead. Follow up the canyon over more difficult terrain. There is a fork in the canyon a short ways up. Following the right fork/bushwhacking takes you to the Finger Zinger area, and the western face of the Citadel. For the NE face, continue up the canyon and up onto a boulder field with excellent views of the Rabbit Ear Massif. From here, bushwhack up to the cliff directly. The approach trails are mostly non-existent, but some faint tracks can be found. the best thing to do is to locate your climbs from the canyon, and then determine the best approach.
Browse More Classics in The Citadel
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Citadel:
West Ridge 5.6 Trad, 4 pitches, 650 feet
Clem's Folly 5.7 Trad, 13 pitches, 120 feet
Murray's Crack 5.8 Trad, 120 feet
Wish You Were Here 5.8+ Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet
Arch Rival 5.9 Trad, 2 pitches
Glad We Came 5.9 Sport, 1 pitch, 145 feet
The Nose 5.9 Trad, 140 feet
Finger Zinger 5.10a/b PG13 Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet
Styx n Stones 5.10 Trad, 3 pitches, 200 feet
Featured Route For The Citadel
Styx n Stones 5.10 NM : Organ Mountains : The Citadel
Three short pitches.P1: Climb the steep crack in a corner and belay on a large ledge.P2: Traverse left from the belay and climb a short difficult crack (the crux). Continue higher, clip a bolt and belay next to a block above.P3: Climb up an easy face (one bolt?) to the top....[more] Browse More Classics in NM