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Citadel, The S,TR 
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The Citadel 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 806
Submitted By: Nate Adams on Oct 10, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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BETA PHOTO: Tod Anderson on The Citadel, fall of 2003, looking...

Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a fun route with good edges and a small roof thrown in for good measure. Clean, safe and a great view!

Protection 

Approximately 10 bolts (check the quidebook or count hangers) and 2 coldshut anchors.


Photos of The Citadel Slideshow Add Photo
Vincent Keller pulling the roof on The Citadel (07...
BETA PHOTO: Vincent Keller pulling the roof on The Citadel (07...
Scott Guile rapping off of The Citadel (07/07/12)
Scott Guile rapping off of The Citadel (07/07/12)

Comments on The Citadel Add Comment
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By Kevin Neilson
From: Boulder
Jul 17, 2006

This is one of the most fun intermediate routes I've done at Devil's Head. The roof looks intimidating but, while exposed, isn't difficult to ascend. The crux is actually on the face below the roof. At the top, leave the crack and go left up the face for some thin slab moves. Try not to move too far left of the bolt line near the anchors.
By slim
Administrator
Jul 23, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

fun route. as noted, the bit before the roof is kind of in your face, and the roof isn't too bad. i was kind of surprised at the little runout to the anchors. this section felt like the crux, and at the end of a long day of climbing i have to say i was pretty focused.
By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Oct 10, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

There is a loose block just right of the first bolt that badly needs to be dealt with. It's about the size of a large suitcase, and the fracturing extends completely around and behind the block; the only thing holding it in is a couple of small chockstones. It is highly likely that folks that are not paying attention are using this thing as a hand and foot hold (it's right on the bolt line). If, or more likely when, someone pulls this thing off, it will almost certainly hit the big slab at the base of the route and head right for the belay stance. If this thing hits someone, it will either completely mame or kill them...it won't be pretty.

If I get up to DH again in the near future during the week when the crag is empty, I will bring my prybar to deal with this; however, considering this is most certainly not my home crag, a local should consider dealing with it when they get a chance.