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Chosen One, The 
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Now It's My Turn 
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Stone Woman 

The Chosen One 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 165'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Mike Strassman
Page Views: 1,011
Submitted By: Hendrixson on Oct 20, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Top-rope, self-belay. Yarded at crux otherwise cl...

Description 

Earns the 5.11a rating just after the first bolt with delicate crimps and micro feet. Eases shortly thereafter with three or so 5.10 cruxes interspersed among the 165ft of climbing. Note there are significant (20ft) runouts between a few bolts on easier terrain. While arguably a one move wonder, the climbing above is so enjoyable and endless that it can be overlooked.


Location 

Sixth climb from the right; between 'Stone Woman' and 'Isle of You'. Rightmost climb on the gravel terrace.


Protection 

17 bolts to 2-bolt anchor, which is shared with 'Isle of You'. Since the route is 165ft one must:

  • Walk off
  • Double rope rappel
  • Climb with an 80m rope



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By Matthew N. Hirt
From: college park
Mar 8, 2011

This climb was good broke a large undercling off just before the anchors, but after falling and getting another look at it you don't need it. climbed 1/10/11

By John Hayes
From: Bend, OR
Feb 19, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

The thin moves from the ground past the first bolt are the crux. After that there are two or three cruxes that seemed like maybe 5.10 to me. The climbing is fun even if there are a lot of tendon tearing moves near the bottom.