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 ADVANCED
The Alpenglow Wall
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Chockstone Arete, The S 
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Splittsville? S 
Un-named S 

The Chockstone Arete 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,363
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Jun 26, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Carol Nahm near the end of pitch.

Description 

The right side of The Alpenglow Wall is composed of a narrowing slot with several routes taking off from it. The left of these lines chases an interesting arete that climbs with more finess than power. Begin with a fingery traverse to the left, the crux, that gains hidden jugs after one commits to the move. Interesting and thoughtful climbing utilizes a hand on the arete with the feet continuously to the right. A nice series of turns near the end of the route will toss you into the slightly spooky finish that ends left of the arete proper.

Possibly the most interesting climbing on this wall, The Chockstone Arete delivers good stone, interesting climbing with several committing moves, and excellent continuity. I never skip it.


Protection 

Bring eight draws and a rope. It has a cold shut lowering station.



Photos of The Chockstone Arete Slideshow Add Photo
Shane Morris on the left start of Chockstone Arete. Photo M. Bennet.
Shane Morris on the left start of Chockstone Arete...
Shane Morris showing that it truly is an arete climb. Photo M. Bennet.
Shane Morris showing that it truly is an arete cli...
Comments on The Chockstone Arete Add Comment
Show which comments
By Mike b.
Nov 16, 2004
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

This is one of the better climbs in the area but not an 5.11a this has always been considered a 10c which still seems steep compared to other areas. Two different starts to this climb left or right up the arete. I prefer the left for the cool heel hook move. A good lead but a couple spots are sketch fall areas along the arete. Enjoy!

By VARMENT
From: Boulder, Colorado
Aug 15, 2010

Felt 5.10 to me.

By Mike Bannister
Sep 11, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

Really cool climb. 5.10. Potential for "arete-biting" in a fall.