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Little Lebowski Urban Achievers Crag
Routes Sorted
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Autobahn 
Careful, There's A Beverage Here! 
Chinaman, The 
Dude Abides, The 
Face Down In The Muck 
Gutterballs 
Jackie Treehorn 
Jesus, The 
Logjammin 
Mark It Zero! 
Nice Marmot 
Nihilist, The 
Shomer Shabbas 

The Chinaman 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Erik Harz, Mark Collar, and Richard Shore 2011
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 633
Submitted By: Richard Shore on Aug 24, 2011
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The Chinaman, 5.11a/b

Description 

"The chinaman is not the issue here, Dude. Also, Dude, chinaman is not the preferred nomenclature. Asian-American, please."

Climb up some good plates and edges past the first bolt and into the huge hueco. An awesome 2-finger pocket gets you established at the overhanging bulge. Pull over the bulge on good holds and make a desperate escape left onto the thin slab after the last bolt.


Location 

Located amongst some formations to the northwest of the main LLUA Crag. See map on main page for directions.


Protection 

4 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. Walkoff/downclimb an easy V0 boulder problem on the far northeast corner of the formation.



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By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Aug 25, 2011

By steve edwards
From: SLC, UT
Sep 4, 2011

Do you think the rug peers did this?

By Joseph Stover
From: Batesville, AR
Sep 10, 2011
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

the climbing leading to the dustbowl is fun and harder than it looks, then the best part begins. Some strong cranking leads to a spicey topout. The last clip is difficult, however immaculately clean fall potential exists. Walkoff is far climbers right, downclimb an arete.

By Jiana ten Brinke
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Sep 10, 2011
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

Two words for this route: SUPER FUN! The best part of the climb comes after the big pocket.

By Richard Shore
Sep 12, 2011

Glad to hear you two enjoyed the route. "Dustbowl" is a rather fitting description of the big hueco. Maybe I'll bring along a big broom to sweep it out next time I'm there.

By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Sep 26, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

I was pretty impressed by this climb. The bottom moves provide some elevation, and the last ten feet are slightly mysterious and fun. I thought the last clip was quite mellow, however: you pull up rope while hanging off a solid open-hand edge.

I'm curious about the face to the right. There appears to be a fun line there.

By Richard Shore
Sep 26, 2011

The face right of Chinaman did appear to have a potential line (or two), but I initially ignored it due to the poor rock quality down low. It would require pretty extensive cleaning.

By matthew hendren
From: Santa Barbara, California
Jul 16, 2013

easy first 15 feet to the owl hole, then it gets fun. finger pocket and gaston to just past the next clip, then scoot around to climber's left after the 3rd clip to top out.