All Locations > Massachusetts > Western MA > Mormon Hollow

The Chimney

Name: The Chimney
Rating: 2.8

5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British

Routes in Mormon Hollow

L › R R › L A › Z

	'The Buttress' or 'Delaney Arete' T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	13. (Central Buttress Far Left Slab Route) S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	15. T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	21 - Second Diagonal (?) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	23(?) T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Arrhythmia S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a V4 6B
	Bird Battle S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
	Cardiac Arete (aka route 8) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Cardiac Bypass Direct TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Casio Electric Piano T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
	Chimney, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Delaney Memorial Route S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Dimmest Glimmer, The V9-10 7C+
	Don't Sweat the Small Stuff S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Excessive Force S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Excessive Tunnel Power S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
	Hang Ten S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Hollywood and Vine TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Holy Braille S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Janitor’s Cadillac, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Methodical Madness T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Mormon Experience, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Original Sin T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Phony Maroni T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Pinch the Polish S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Power Dive S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Priapism S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Pulchritudinous Panda (aka Methodical Right) T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Ramp aka Cursed Slab, The S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Smitty's Roof S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Third Diagonal T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Tidal Wave (route 2) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Tree Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Triple Bypass S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Tunnel Vision S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Unknown T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Unknown Hand/Fist T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	You Picked a Vine Climb to leave me, Lucille T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Zizag Crack T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

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Type:	Trad, TR, 50 ft (15 m)
FA:	unknown
Page Views:	3,547 total · 19/month
Shared By:	kurthicks on Apr 6, 2009 · Updates
Admins:	sara pax, Old Timer, jim.dangle, Joe M Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

This is the tight chimney, not quite a squeeze, that is situated about 50' left of the stone staircase on the left side of Africa Buttress. Climb inside the chimney from the base or face climb the outside for the lower half, get in the belly of the beast, and shimmy and thrutch your way to the top. An unusual route for the area and a must do.

Location

There are two large roofs at Mormon Hollow. This route climbs the wide crack on the left of the righthand roof (the "Africa Buttress").

Protection

There is no gear for the lower half of the route. Above that a single set of cams from 0.5" - 3" will protect in horizontal cracks. The route can be top roped off of trees if the runout is intimidating.