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 ADVANCED
Square Ledge (Pinkham Notch)
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Brain, The TR 
Chimney, The T 
Joe's Place T 
Nose, The TR 
Practice Session T 
Prize, The T 
Standard Route T 
Thriller Arete T 
Unknown (Left of Practice Session Right of The Brain) T 
White Face, The T 

The Chimney 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Brooks Dodge
Page Views: 1,502
Submitted By: James Otey on Jun 5, 2007

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Someone i met while climbing square ledge, doing t...

Description 

Right of Thriller Arete, One will find an obvious chimney that slowly constricts all the way to the top. Scramble up to the base where face holds and a handcrack on the left provide easy climbing to the 5.5 crux near the top. Though slightly slabby in nature, The Chimney will bestow you with a hefty payload of positive feet and hands. Makes for a great first trad lead- will take pretty much any protection all the way to the top.

Location 

The obvious chimney system in the upper right portion of the crag.

Protection 

Medium to large cams and nuts- standard rack.


Photos of The Chimney Slideshow Add Photo
Lowering off The Chimney
Lowering off The Chimney
The Chimney, Square Ledge, NH.
BETA PHOTO: The Chimney, Square Ledge, NH.
11 y/o Indigo climbs like like the monkey she is!!!!!
11 y/o Indigo climbs like like the monkey she is!!...

Comments on The Chimney Add Comment
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By T. Moon
Jun 9, 2007

Fun little climb. A great beginners lead.
By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
May 20, 2012
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

Fun! Very easy til the top of the route. Easily protected exit.
By Russ Keane
May 28, 2014

Very easy. I would even put this at 5.2 or 5.3. Kind of a letdown in that sense, but an interesting rock feature and worth doing if you are there.