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 ADVANCED
Katahdin
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
"Diamond Area", The T 
Armadillo, The T 
Chimney, The T 
Cilley-Barber T 
Flatiron T 
North Basin - Headwall Route T 
North Basin - the Big Corner Complete T 
Pamola 5.0 T 
Pamola Ice Cliffs 
Pamola IV Ridge T 
Waterfall Gully T 
Wrong Chimney, The T 
Unsorted Routes:

The Chimney 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b WI2 Mod. Snow

   
Type:  Trad, Ice, Snow, Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b WI2 [details]
FA: W. Helburn, Chamberain, Holden, Kennedy, M. Helburn, Dow, Whipple (1923)
Page Views: 6,285
Submitted By: BrianWinslow on Apr 28, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: The Chimney - The long gully which culminates at t...

Winter climbing/hiking/mountaneering requires a permit

Description 

A long, great gully climb. When I climbed it there was very little ice, making it a snow climb with a few easy rock bands. The hardest part for us was actually getting onto the ridge at the top of the climb to head out for the knife edge and the rim of the basin, though by heading left down the Dudley trail this crux may be avoided. DO NOT CLIMB WHEN THERE IS AVALANCHE DANGER!

Location 

The south basin, on the left wall. The route can not be seen from Chimney Pond.

Protection 

Snow gear (pickets), probably some screws (we didn't use them for lack of ice), a light rock rack (nuts and a few cams).


Photos of The Chimney Slideshow Add Photo
The Chimney (the huge cleft in the rock face) as s...
BETA PHOTO: The Chimney (the huge cleft in the rock face) as s...
Myself, Mike, and Dale Starting the Chimney.
Myself, Mike, and Dale Starting the Chimney.
The Chimney, Pamola...Katahdin.
The Chimney, Pamola...Katahdin.
Myself and Dale on the South Basin rim after climb...
Myself and Dale on the South Basin rim after climb...

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