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 ADVANCED
Katahdin
Routes Sorted
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Armadillo, The T 
Chimney, The T 
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The Chimney 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b WI2 Mod. Snow

   
Type:  Trad, Ice, Snow, Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: Easy 5th French: 1+ Ewbanks: 3 UIAA: I ZA: 5 British: M 1c WI2- [details]
FA: W. Helburn, Chamberain, Holden, Kennedy, M. Helburn, Dow, Whipple (1923)
Page Views: 5,233
Submitted By: BrianWinslow on Apr 28, 2007

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The Chimney, Pamola...Katahdin.

Winter climbing/hiking/mountaneering requires a permit

Description 

A long, great gully climb. When I climbed it there was very little ice, making it a snow climb with a few easy rock bands. The hardest part for us was actually getting onto the ridge at the top of the climb to head out for the knife edge and the rim of the basin, though by heading left down the Dudley trail this crux may be avoided. DO NOT CLIMB WHEN THERE IS AVALANCHE DANGER!

Location 

The south basin, on the left wall. The route can not be seen from Chimney Pond.

Protection 

Snow gear (pickets), probably some screws (we didn't use them for lack of ice), a light rock rack (nuts and a few cams).


Photos of The Chimney Slideshow Add Photo
Myself, Mike, and Dale Starting the Chimney.
Myself, Mike, and Dale Starting the Chimney.
The Chimney (the huge cleft in the rock face) as seen from Baxter Peak.
BETA PHOTO: The Chimney (the huge cleft in the rock face) as s...
Myself and Dale on the South Basin rim after climbing the Chimney Route.
Myself and Dale on the South Basin rim after climb...
The Chimney - The long gully which culminates at the cleft between Pamola & Chimney Peaks upon the Knife's Edge Ridge.
BETA PHOTO: The Chimney - The long gully which culminates at t...

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