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The Chief
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.1 from 15 votes
Type: | Sport, TR, 30 ft (9 m) |
FA: | Chris Summit and Jeff Follet 1993 |
Page Views: | 2,733 total · 15/month |
Shared By: | Brian Quiter on Jun 1, 2009 |
Admins: | Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
The Chief is more fun, steeper, better protected, and more straight-forward than its neighbor War Party (5.11b). Unfortunately, it isn't any longer.
Hop up on a block, then pull through 3 bolts on an impressively overhanging face using many pockets. This is a gym-climber's .10c, as it is pretty pumpy for how short it is.
Hop up on a block, then pull through 3 bolts on an impressively overhanging face using many pockets. This is a gym-climber's .10c, as it is pretty pumpy for how short it is.
Location
Upon arrive at the Far Side from the Bubble, head right and follow a loose trail about 100' uphill, around to the back of the spires. Once you reach flat ground, War Party and The Chief will be visible on the left.
Protection
3 bolts, then a small runout on easier climbing to the top.
You can set up a top rope with a long sling by soloing the backside of the spire. Go into the chimney on the right side climb onto the slab and solo up exposed 5.4.
There are 3 bolts atop the spire, two of which are in good shape, but the only rappel rings are attached to the bolts by old webbing.
You can set up a top rope with a long sling by soloing the backside of the spire. Go into the chimney on the right side climb onto the slab and solo up exposed 5.4.
There are 3 bolts atop the spire, two of which are in good shape, but the only rappel rings are attached to the bolts by old webbing.
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