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The Far Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
18NY (aka The Chickens are Breastless) 
At Last 
Atlas Shrugged 
Baby Atlas (aka The Chickens are Restless) 
Better Eat Your Wheaties 
Boneless Chicken Ranch 
Bushy Crack 
Cereal Killer 
Chief, The 
Curse of Madame C 
Death to the right 
Far Out 
Far Side Chimney 
Farthing, The 
Feelin' Your Oats 
Gorilla Finishing School 
Hummingbird Spire, N. Face 
Initiation Rite 
Left Behind 
Lichen It 
Mystery Hole 
Near Side Chimney 
New Tradition 
Night of the Crash Test Dummies 
Old Spice 
Old Tradition 
Pile, The 
Planet of the Grapes 5.6 
Rite of Passage 
Saviour Heart 
Separation Anxiety 
Seymour Frishberg 
Shute-Mills Route 
Something Good 
Sport Roof Left 
Sport Roof Right 
Step To The Left 
Two-Bolt Slab 
War Party 
Unsorted Routes:

The Chief 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

Type: Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Chris Summit and Jeff Follet 1993
Page Views: 550
Submitted By: Brian Quiter on Jun 1, 2009
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The Chief is more fun, steeper, better protected, and more straight-forward than its neighbor War Party (5.11b). Unfortunately, it isn't any longer.

Hop up on a block, then pull through 3 bolts on an impressively overhanging face using many pockets. This is a gym-climber's .10c, as it is pretty pumpy for how short it is.


Upon arrive at the Far Side from the Bubble, head right and follow a loose trail about 100' uphill, around to the back of the spires. Once you reach flat ground, War Party and The Chief will be visible on the left.


3 bolts, then a small runout on easier climbing to the top.

You can set up a top rope with a long sling by soloing the backside of the spire. Go into the chimney on the right side climb onto the slab and solo up exposed 5.4.

There are 3 bolts atop the spire, two of which are in good shape, but the only rappel rings are attached to the bolts by old webbing.

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By Dodrill
From: Sebastopol, CA
Mar 8, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

The slings are gone and anchor re-configured with rings for rappel without needing to leave old webbing. Short but steep and classic.

By Floyd Hayes
Apr 17, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

A top-rope can be set up after climbing two pitches up Shute-Mills (or one of the climbs to the left that share the same anchor) and Initiation Rite.