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 ADVANCED
The Far Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
18NY (aka The Chickens are Breastless) T,S 
At Last S 
Atlas S 
Atlas Shrugged S 
Baby Atlas (aka The Chickens are Restless) S 
Better Eat Your Wheaties T,S 
Boneless Chicken Ranch T 
Bushy Crack T 
Cereal Killer S 
Chief, The S,TR 
Continental Drift Whiplash T 
Curse of Madame C S 
Death to the right T 
Far S 
Far Out S 
Far Side Chimney T 
Farther S 
Farthing, The T 
Feelin' Your Oats T 
Gorilla Finishing School S 
Hummingbird Spire, N. Face T 
Initiation Rite T 
Jardinero S 
Koka T 
Kola S 
Left Behind T 
Lichen It T 
Mystery Hole S,TR 
Near Side Chimney T 
New Tradition S,TR 
Night of the Crash Test Dummies S 
Old Spice T 
Old Tradition T 
Pile, The T 
Planet of the Grapes 5.6 T 
Rite of Passage T 
Saviour Heart T,S 
Scorpion's Chair S 
Separation Anxiety S,TR 
Seymour Frishberg T 
Shute-Mills Route S 
Something Good S,TR 
Spellcaster S 
Sport Roof Left S 
Sport Roof Right S 
Step To The Left T,S 
Synchronicity S 
Tradfest T 
Two-Bolt Slab T,S 
War Party S,TR 
Unsorted Routes:

The Chief 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Chris Summit and Jeff Follet 1993
Page Views: 718
Submitted By: Brian Quiter on Jun 1, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Zach Anaya redpointing the Chief

Description 

The Chief is more fun, steeper, better protected, and more straight-forward than its neighbor War Party (5.11b). Unfortunately, it isn't any longer.

Hop up on a block, then pull through 3 bolts on an impressively overhanging face using many pockets. This is a gym-climber's .10c, as it is pretty pumpy for how short it is.

Location 

Upon arrive at the Far Side from the Bubble, head right and follow a loose trail about 100' uphill, around to the back of the spires. Once you reach flat ground, War Party and The Chief will be visible on the left.

Protection 

3 bolts, then a small runout on easier climbing to the top.

You can set up a top rope with a long sling by soloing the backside of the spire. Go into the chimney on the right side climb onto the slab and solo up exposed 5.4.

There are 3 bolts atop the spire, two of which are in good shape, but the only rappel rings are attached to the bolts by old webbing.


Comments on The Chief Add Comment
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By Dodrill
From: Sebastopol, CA
Mar 8, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

The slings are gone and anchor re-configured with rings for rappel without needing to leave old webbing. Short but steep and classic.
By Floyd Hayes
Apr 17, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

A top-rope can be set up after climbing two pitches up Shute-Mills (or one of the climbs to the left that share the same anchor) and Initiation Rite.