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Wine and Roses
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Cashew Corner 
Chief, The 
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Wine and Roses 

The Chief 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: ?
Season: Faces South
Page Views: 1,028
Submitted By: Tony B on Jun 6, 2007
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While it has its own merit, this is a rather short climb for the West Canyon area. As such it is less recommended than some others. From the stance and bolt where you rapped in, climb up and right into a finger and handcrack, continuing back up to the canyon rim. The crux is short and definite, but protected.


Perhaps 200 meters West of the Wine and Roses anchor and just past a dead-end gully descending part way into the canyon there is a huge right-facing corner. The buttress that this borders on the east is referred to as 'The Indian Head.' Rap from a bolted anchor to a stance with a bolt just down and left of a handcrack.


A standard rack.

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By tooTALLtim
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 7, 2009

So short....not worth it till you do the other, longer routes.

By Jeebus
Mar 31, 2010

now has a two bolt anchor!!!!!!

By mika burns
Aug 21, 2011

ya 2 jankie, loose bolts.

By canyonclimber
From: Casper WY
Apr 3, 2013

This route is worth getting on. The top out ledge is one of my favorite belays in the canyon. The top has two nice cracks at the top to build an anchor. The bolts you see at the top are for rapping to several routes including this one, but not for the top out of the Chief. Good two bolt anchor at the bottom where crack ends. There is a hard bolted extention below (12?)

By CollinT
Apr 10, 2014

Our party ended up leaving some gear on this climb (anchor, rope, and a single rack of cams) on 4/6/2014 because of some confusion on who was cleaning what. If you happened to find this gear or know who might have shoot me a PM, any information is much appreciated, a reward is being offered if the gear turns up.