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Johnnie entering the "pod", below the crux to The ...
This route starts up the gully several feet right of Ninny's Revenge. The crack runs to the right of another route (Pops Goes Hawaiian) with a single-bolt on the left face of the gully. The Chief is a fun route with good placements for pro and comfy stances for feet.
It is possible to rap from the top of Tender Flakes of Wrath (127 in Vogel's guide) or the route that runs up the center face, about straight up from the pine tree next to the northwest face.
Hexes or large cams for natural anchor would be handy.
BETA PHOTO: "The Chief".
Photo by Blitzo.
Group solo of the Chief
Paul starting the final crack
Apr 22, 2004
A good lead for a beginning leader. My wife led it in 03 and I was not very scared at all! Solid at 5.5.
|By C Miller|
Nov 15, 2004
The fun climbing and good rock make this a recommended route for the novice leader. Two stars out of five.
From: Westminster, CO
Dec 8, 2004
great route for the grade. Good begining leader route and fun solo for we unleashed sorts. Took a friend out for his second trad lead and he cruised it. Protects well with almost all types of gear. Good rock, good area, away from crowds, near other good climbs, recommended. Pro for anchos so don't sew it up with your goods needed to bring up your second.
|By Kirk Barrett|
Dec 17, 2010
Some one has added 2 belay bolts at the top of this route, despite the presence of ample natural protection opportunities. Why?
|By The Gray Tradster|
Dec 17, 2010
This has become an increasing problem.
Convenience anchors have now sprouted on Woman's Work is Never Done. and even relatively obscure routes like Dreams of Redrocks.
It particularly makes no sense at all on this one.
|By Ester Williams|
From: San Diego, CA
Dec 27, 2010
The park service actually prefers rap stations versus a walk off because of less impact.
|By john durr|
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Apr 24, 2011
Yeah right, I am pretty sure the park does not want additional convenience anchors when an existing nearby and easily accessible rappel anchor is nearby.
Sep 26, 2011
There are two options to top-out: to the right bypassing the "summit" block (easy) and going slightly left on the top of the "summit" block following the crack (one 5.7 move). #3 + #2 C4 for the natural gear anchor.
Nov 8, 2011
Great climb for beginners, or for a nice cruise. There are no bolts on top of the route. Building an anchor in the crack took a #2, #3, and #4 Camalot. The climb protects well with anything.
|By david doucette|
Dec 14, 2012
best 5.5 in the park, not counting right on of course.