The Chief 5.5
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.5 [details] |
| FA: | Don and Karen Wilson, 3/86 |
| Submitted By: | Carol on Jan 18, 2004 |
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Johnnie entering the "pod", below the crux to The ...
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Description This route starts up the gully several feet right of Ninny's Revenge. The crack runs to the right of another route (Pops Goes Hawaiian) with a single-bolt on the left face of the gully. The Chief is a fun route with good placements for pro and comfy stances for feet.
It is possible to rap from the top of Tender Flakes of Wrath (127 in Vogel's guide) or the route that runs up the center face, about straight up from the pine tree next to the northwest face.
Protection Hexes or large cams for natural anchor would be handy.
BETA PHOTO: "The Chief".
Photo by Blitzo.
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Group solo of the Chief
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Paul starting the final crack
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By Drederek
Apr 22, 2004
rating: 5.5
| A good lead for a beginning leader. My wife led it in 03 and I was not very scared at all! Solid at 5.5. |
By C Miller
Administrator
Nov 15, 2004
rating: 5.5
| The fun climbing and good rock make this a recommended route for the novice leader. Two stars out of five. |
By Locker
From: Westminster, CO
Dec 8, 2004
rating: 5.5
| great route for the grade. Good begining leader route and fun solo for we unleashed sorts. Took a friend out for his second trad lead and he cruised it. Protects well with almost all types of gear. Good rock, good area, away from crowds, near other good climbs, recommended. Pro for anchos so don't sew it up with your goods needed to bring up your second. |
By Kirk Barrett
Dec 17, 2010
| Some one has added 2 belay bolts at the top of this route, despite the presence of ample natural protection opportunities. Why? |
By The Gray Tradster
Dec 17, 2010
| This has become an increasing problem.
Convenience anchors have now sprouted on Woman's Work is Never Done. and even relatively obscure routes like Dreams of Redrocks.
It particularly makes no sense at all on this one. |
By Ester Williams
From: San Diego, CA
Dec 27, 2010
| The park service actually prefers rap stations versus a walk off because of less impact. |
By john durr
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Apr 24, 2011
| Yeah right, I am pretty sure the park does not want additional convenience anchors when an existing nearby and easily accessible rappel anchor is nearby. |
By Vitaliy
Sep 26, 2011
| There are two options to top-out: to the right bypassing the "summit" block (easy) and going slightly left on the top of the "summit" block following the crack (one 5.7 move). #3 + #2 C4 for the natural gear anchor. |
By Canon
Nov 8, 2011
rating: 5.5
| Great climb for beginners, or for a nice cruise. There are no bolts on top of the route. Building an anchor in the crack took a #2, #3, and #4 Camalot. The climb protects well with anything. |
By david doucette
Dec 14, 2012
rating: 5.5
| best 5.5 in the park, not counting right on of course. |
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