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The Twilight Zone
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Chaser, The 
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The Chaser 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Kirk Miller, Eric Schmeer (10/08)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,338
Submitted By: Kirk Miller on Nov 26, 2008
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Sometimes a chaser follows a beer but sometimes......

"Take a short but very meaningful journey into the Twilight Zone" 

Pull through the crux roof moving right onto the overhanging headwall, then back left and up to the anchors. Tricky.


Location 

This is currently the rightmost route in The Twilight Zone.


Protection 

9 bolts to chain and ring anchor.



Photos of The Chaser Slideshow Add Photo
Moving toward the crux on "The Chaser", fun route with great movement.
Moving toward the crux on "The Chaser", fun route ...
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By Derek Lawrence
From: Bailey
May 8, 2009
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c

Fun route. Definitely a little tricky to read.

By adrenalated
From: Thornton, CO
Jul 12, 2009
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

Chossy at the bottom... would be a three star route otherwise. The roof and above is brilliant! Very well bolted.

By David Stallman
Jun 13, 2011

Awesome, technical, balancy upper section!
Got a draw on the last bolt but couldn't clip it - made for an awesome redpoint!

By Crag Dweller
From: New York, NY
Aug 31, 2012
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c

A really fun route. The roof was more pumpy than I anticipated and, after a little rest, the headwall continues to challenge with a steep, tricky sequence.

A couple of suggestions. First, as others have said, the lower half is really chossy, so the belayer should set up with the ability to get out of the way in case anything comes down. And, you'll save yourself some rope drag if you use long draws on the 2nd and 3rd bolts, plus you'll prevent the rope from running across the edge of the roof.

By Abram Herman
From: Golden, CO
Jul 29, 2013
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c

Fun! With all respect to Crag Dweller, I don't think you need to be worried about extending any of these bolts. I clipped all of them (including the kind of unnecessary first bolt) with short sport draws, and I didn't notice rope drag at all.