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The Charlatan is the first major formation past the Magician. It sits directly above the Sorcerer. It is perhaps most famous for two routes -- one that ascends the strange blocky formation on the summit (Our Lady of the Needles), and another called Spooky which takes off from the Witch-Charlatan saddle (Spooky can also be accessed by hiking up to the summit and rapping in from anchor bolts). Fancy Free (5.10+) is another classic climb up obvious cracks on the east face of the Charlatan.
Once you pass the Magician, the trail will take you past the northen end of the Charlatan. The summit is an easy detour up a small trail, and climbs on either side can be accessed from the main trail as well.
8 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in The Charlatan
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Charlatan:
Charlatan Summit Spire (a.k.a. Our Lady of the Needles) 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b Trad, 1 pitch, 45'
Spooky 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 2 pitches, 175'
The Valley Guy 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Trad, 2 pitches, 100'
Fancy Free 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b Trad, 3 pitches
Gemstone 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Trad, 2 pitches, 175'
Bad Fortune 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a Trad, 2 pitches, 300'
Featured Route For The Charlatan
Fancy Free 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b CA : The Needles / Kern River : ... : The Charlatan
This is a super high quality 3 pitch route around the corner to the right of Spooky. We rapped into this route from the gully between the Charlatan and the Sorcerer. Sun in the morning and shade in the afternoon.Pitch 1- Climb slippery slab to a slightly right leaning crack, then straight up to a bolted belay on a small ledge. 5.9Pitch 2- Crux. Beautiful layback/finger crack. Perfect pro. Move left into the crack via a couple of face moves and launch off on a perfect layback/finger crack. This p...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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