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The Charlatan
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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bad Fortune 
Charlatan Summit Spire (a.k.a. Our Lady of the Needles) 
Fancy Free 
Gemstone 
Northwest Route 
Spooky 
Superstition 
Valley Guy, The 
Unsorted Routes:

The Charlatan 


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Administrators: Matthew Fienup, M.Morley, Sam Vanderhyden, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Jun 18, 2006

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Great view of The Charlatan from atop The Sorcerer

Description 

The Charlatan is the first major formation past the Magician. It sits directly above the Sorcerer. It is perhaps most famous for two routes -- one that ascends the strange blocky formation on the summit (Our Lady of the Needles), and another called Spooky which takes off from the Witch-Charlatan saddle (Spooky can also be accessed by hiking up to the summit and rapping in from anchor bolts). Fancy Free (5.10+) is another classic climb up obvious cracks on the east face of the Charlatan.


Getting There 

Once you pass the Magician, the trail will take you past the northen end of the Charlatan. The summit is an easy detour up a small trail, and climbs on either side can be accessed from the main trail as well.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Charlatan:
Charlatan Summit Spire (a.k.a. Our Lady of the Needles)   5.7     Trad, 1 pitch, 45 feet   
Spooky   5.9     Trad, 2 pitches, 175 feet   
Fancy Free   5.10     Trad, 3 pitches   
Gemstone   5.10c     Trad, 2 pitches, 175 feet   
Bad Fortune   5.11c     Trad, 2 pitches, 300 feet   
Browse More Classics in The Charlatan

Featured Route For The Charlatan
Crux layback/finger crack on the second pitch

Fancy Free 5.10  CA : The Needles / Kern River : ... : The Charlatan
This is a super high quality 3 pitch route around the corner to the right of Spooky. We rapped into this route from the gully between the Charlatan and the Sorcerer. Sun in the morning and shade in the afternoon.Pitch 1- Climb slippery slab to a slightly right leaning crack, then straight up to a bolted belay on a small ledge. 5.9Pitch 2- Crux. Beautiful layback/finger crack. Perfect pro. Move left into the crack via a couple of face moves and launch off on a perfect layback/finger crack. This p...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA


Photos of The Charlatan Slideshow Add Photo
Matt Grieger stands atop the Charlatan (the Needles, CA)

Matt Grieger stands atop the Charlatan (the Needle...

Michael & Tyson relax beneath the Lady...atop Charlatan Needle.

Michael & Tyson relax beneath the Lady...atop Char...

East Face of Charlatan Needle.  Fancy Free (5.10b) is the crack system that splits the face just left of the pine tree silhouette.

East Face of Charlatan Needle. Fancy Free (5.10b)...

East Face Charlatan Needle

East Face Charlatan Needle