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The Charlatan

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bad Fortune T 
Charlatan Summit Spire (a.k.a. Our Lady of the Needles) T 
Fancy Free T 
Gemstone T 
Northwest Route T 
Spooky T 
Superstition T 
Valley Guy, The T 
Unsorted Routes:

The Charlatan 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 36.10825, -118.48129 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 31,221
Administrators: Matthew Fienup, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Jun 18, 2006
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Great view of The Charlatan from atop The Sorcerer

Description 

The Charlatan is the first major formation past the Magician. It sits directly above the Sorcerer. It is perhaps most famous for two routes -- one that ascends the strange blocky formation on the summit (Our Lady of the Needles), and another called Spooky which takes off from the Witch-Charlatan saddle (Spooky can also be accessed by hiking up to the summit and rapping in from anchor bolts). Fancy Free (5.10+) is another classic climb up obvious cracks on the east face of the Charlatan.


Getting There 

Once you pass the Magician, the trail will take you past the northen end of the Charlatan. The summit is an easy detour up a small trail, and climbs on either side can be accessed from the main trail as well.


Climbing Season


8 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',1],['5.9',1],['5.10',3],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Charlatan:
Charlatan Summit Spire (a.k.a. Our Lady of the Needles)   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 45'   
Spooky   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 175'   
The Valley Guy   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 100'   
Fancy Free   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches   
Gemstone   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 175'   
Bad Fortune   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   
Browse More Classics in The Charlatan

Featured Route For The Charlatan
This summit shot, taken atop Spooky, shows the approximate location of the bolted anchor.

Spooky 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  CA : Southern Sierra : ... : The Charlatan
Spooky is Marge's cat. It is also a great "end-of-the day climb" - especially after rapping off of the Sorcerer as it begins from the Sorcerer/Charlatan notch.P1: Climb up a fairly easy slab/face on the SW corner of the Charlatan to an obvious ledge below a right-facing corner with an offwidth in the back. Belay here, or, if you runner your gear well, continue on. P2: Ascend the OW (crux), and then continue more easily up the face and ribs of rock above. Belay at bolts on the summit. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of The Charlatan Slideshow Add Photo
Michael & Tyson relax beneath the Lady...atop Charlatan Needle.
Michael & Tyson relax beneath the Lady...atop Char...
East Face Charlatan Needle
East Face Charlatan Needle
Matt Grieger stands atop the Charlatan (the Needles, CA)
Matt Grieger stands atop the Charlatan (the Needle...
East Face of Charlatan Needle.  Fancy Free (5.10b) is the crack system that splits the face just left of the pine tree silhouette.
East Face of Charlatan Needle. Fancy Free (5.10b)...
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