Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Upper Broadway
Select Route:
Alcoa Presents T 
Castor T 
Changling, The T 
Conn's East T 
Conn's East Direct T 
Conn's East Lieback Variation T 
Dirty Old Man T 
Discontent T 
Frosted Flake T 
Grand Finale T 
Hidden Assets S 
High Test T 
Kid Galahad T 
Low Octane T 
Nip and Tuck T 
Orangeaid T 
Pancho and Lefty S 
Pollux T 
Soler T 
Spock's Brain T 
Terra Firma Homesick Blues T 
Time Flies T 
Vietnam Veterans Against the Wall T 
Vision, The T 
Windy Corner T 

The Changling 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Beatty & Woodruff - 1979
Page Views: 2,008
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Jan 18, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Topping out on the Changling

Description 

Possibly the best route on the wall! Begin 10 meters right of Conn's East Direct and climb a thin, right-facing, right-arching flake until it ends. Bust some cruxy moves up past the flake to the first of two bolts. Continue up thin face climbing and a seam to a roof which can be breached to the left.

Protection 

Standard rack.


Photos of The Changling Slideshow Add Photo
Careful on the start
Careful on the start
Almost to the roof after the seemingly never endin...
Almost to the roof after the seemingly never endin...

Comments on The Changling Add Comment
Show which comments
By Matt Desenberg
From: North Berwick, ME
Mar 14, 2009

Actually, it's a bit to the right of Conn's East regular start, not the direct start. Conn's East Direct is way farther up Broadway, near Pollux.
By Nate R
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 19, 2011
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Got all the moves on toprope the other day (dammit I should have jumped on on lead, oh well.) Since I was toproping, I went right around the roof, which turns into about 20 feet of face climbing that gets REALLY thin right at the end.

Anybody ever go that way? Could be a cool variation, you could probably slam in a bolt from stance up there (it'd be freaky without it).
By A Terray
From: San Diego, CA
Oct 23, 2011
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Best route on the wall. Do not do in direct sunlight and bring micronuts ... used them in several places :)
By Andy Weinmann
From: Alexandria, VA
Nov 12, 2014

Great route but not as good as Terra Firma due to the bolts.