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The Central Wall

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Abrakadabra 
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Intimidation 
White Eye, pitch 1 

The Central Wall 


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Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: lee hansche on Mar 3, 2007
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Myself walking past the central wall.Photo by my w...

Description 

The Central Wall is a great area with full length climbs ranging from 5.10 to 5.12, some well over 400ft in length. Most routes climb corners and crack systems.

The classic in this area is Intimidation (5.10b), a killer climb that lives up to its name. The other "classic" is Repentance (5.10b R) which is a full-length chimney that is mossy wet and poorly protected in parts. I think it sounds fun. The wall from the bottom looks intimidating and hard to crack. Many climbs start up the first pitch of Intimidation and break off to become classic routes of their own. Even the sweetest climbs here don't see much traffic, so they can get a little dirty, but you can do your part by climbing them and that will help clean them off.

Climb to the top and walk off. You may also rap the cliff with double ropes from the anchor to the right of the finish of Intimidation (5.10b).


Getting There 

This section is marked by the Cathedral Cave on its left and the obvious chimney of Repentance is near the right hand border though it goes a little further.

From the road, follow a trail (not well-marked) to the cave and head right.


11 Total Routes


['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',2],['5.11',4],['5.12',2],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Central Wall:
Antline   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad   
Intimidation   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b R     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   
Abrakadabra   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 85'   
Angel's Freeway   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a R     Trad, 5 pitches, 400'   
White Eye, pitch 1   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Browse More Classics in The Central Wall

Featured Route For The Central Wall
The first pitch boulder you belay off

The British Are Coming 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a A3  NH : Cathedral Ledge : The Central Wall

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