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J-Crack Slab Area
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Weekend Warrior S,TR 

The Cavity 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Doug Snively (likely in the '70s or early '80s)
Page Views: 875
Submitted By: Charles Vernon on Jan 1, 2001

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Description 

This is a one-pitch route that may be used to start Femp or J-Crack. This old-school climb is the business for 5.10-solid leaders at the grade should jump on it! Begin right of J-Crack (but before Femp) below a huge, round crystalline hole in the cliff, which harbors a large tree. Clamber up into the hole and pull crystals up into a left-facing corner. Ascend that (the crux) via sustained laybacking, lacking any noticable stances for placing gear. Belay on a ledge. It is possible to traverse right from here and downclimb the first pitch of Femp or rappel off of a dubious tree, but this is annoying and somewhat scary--best to continue up one of the fine routes above.

Protection 

It requires mainly very small gear, and a #3.5 Friend fits the flare near the top.


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By Chris Dawson
From: Denver, CO
Apr 4, 2002

5.10b "+"? This must be one of those hard low-grade mid 5.10s. Nice call, Charles.
By Joe Collins
Jul 15, 2002

The Gillett guide amazingly calls this 10a. Pretty hard for the grade... it's a different type of climb but we thought it was harder than Thindependence (which is called 10c or d depending on where you look). It's definitely worth doing if you'd like something a little more challenging to start Femp or J-Crack.
By AOSR
From: Wherever we park!
May 24, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

The rap off the tree wasn't nearly as dubious as the lack of stances at the crux! Sweet climb.
By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Aug 22, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This is a fun little pumpfest. Highly recommended start to Femp. I found climbing on the crystals before the roof a total blast!

!Beta alert!:
Get to the good jugs about 15 feet above the roof, lean out and place a good piece, recover, and then launch. If you can, get a piece in after the lieback changes to vertical. Otherwise, just believe and grunt to the top. Tip: thin gear!
By pfwein
Aug 29, 2009

With all due respect for the tips for thin gear, I put in a #2 and #3 Camalot near the top, through what seemed to be the crux. I put in some thin gear below but not in what I thought was "the business," i.e., right below the top.
By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Aug 30, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Really? I popped a number #0.75 and a #2 off the jug, then moved around the corner on what felt would fit a small TCU but just kept going. I didn't place anything, but maybe I just have fat fingers.
By pfwein
Aug 31, 2009

Phil, it's a little hard to know exactly where each of us is talking about (I don't recall a "jug" near the top, but what's a jug can be a matter of opinion). We probably placed a #2 Camalot in the same place and then went to the top, which didn't seem particularly run out. I think a small (thin fingers or something) piece could have been placed above the #2 Camalot, but it was hard (for me) climbing there and going up seemed the best strategy. Maybe the take away is a that it would be nice to have a full range of cams (up to #3 Camalot) when you reach the crux so you can put in whatever size seems right.
By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Sep 1, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I guess by jug I meant the hold I could get all of my fat fingers in and lean back and shake out on right before the strenuous lieback begins. Yeah, you are probably right. I think you could place every piece somewhere.... And yes, I didn't place there I just kept going. So thats probably the best beta.