The Cavity 5.10b
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.10 [details] |
| FA: | Doug Snively (likely in the '70s or early '80s) |
| Submitted By: | Charles Vernon on Jan 1, 2001 |
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Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>>
The following areas are closed from March 1-July 31 or until further notice:
Twin Owls, Rock One, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sheep Mountain, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Lightning Rock and Checkerboard Rock are currently closed. The closures include the named rock formations and the areas extending 100 yards surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes and climber's access trails to the formation.
Alligator Rock is also closed.
www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/area_closures.htm
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This is a one-pitch route that may be used to start Femp or J-Crack. This old-school climb is the business for 5.10-solid leaders at the grade should jump on it! Begin right of J-Crack (but before Femp) below a huge, round crystalline hole in the cliff, which harbors a large tree. Clamber up into the hole and pull crystals up into a left-facing corner. Ascend that (the crux) via sustained laybacking, lacking any noticable stances for placing gear. Belay on a ledge. It is possible to traverse right from here and downclimb the first pitch of Femp or rappel off of a dubious tree, but this is annoying and somewhat scary--best to continue up one of the fine routes above.
Protection It requires mainly very small gear, and a #3.5 Friend fits the flare near the top.
By Chris Dawson
From: Denver, CO
Apr 4, 2002
| 5.10b "+"? This must be one of those hard low-grade mid 5.10s. Nice call, Charles. |
By Joe Collins
Jul 15, 2002
| The Gillett guide amazingly calls this 10a. Pretty hard for the grade... it's a different type of climb but we thought it was harder than Thindependence (which is called 10c or d depending on where you look). It's definitely worth doing if you'd like something a little more challenging to start Femp or J-Crack. |
By AOSR
From: Denver
May 24, 2009
rating: 5.10b
| The rap off the tree wasn't nearly as dubious as the lack of stances at the crux! Sweet climb. |
By Phil Lauffen
From: Louyuppie
Aug 22, 2009
rating: 5.10a
| This is a fun little pumpfest. Highly recommended start to Femp. I found climbing on the crystals before the roof a total blast!
!Beta alert!:
Get to the good jugs about 15 feet above the roof, lean out and place a good piece, recover, and then launch. If you can, get a piece in after the lieback changes to vertical. Otherwise, just believe and grunt to the top. Tip: thin gear! |
By pfwein
Aug 29, 2009
| With all due respect for the tips for thin gear, I put in a #2 and #3 Camalot near the top, through what seemed to be the crux. I put in some thin gear below but not in what I thought was "the business," i.e., right below the top. |
By Phil Lauffen
From: Louyuppie
Aug 30, 2009
rating: 5.10a
| Really? I popped a number #0.75 and a #2 off the jug, then moved around the corner on what felt would fit a small TCU but just kept going. I didn't place anything, but maybe I just have fat fingers. |
By pfwein
Aug 31, 2009
| Phil, it's a little hard to know exactly where each of us is talking about (I don't recall a "jug" near the top, but what's a jug can be a matter of opinion). We probably placed a #2 Camalot in the same place and then went to the top, which didn't seem particularly run out. I think a small (thin fingers or something) piece could have been placed above the #2 Camalot, but it was hard (for me) climbing there and going up seemed the best strategy. Maybe the take away is a that it would be nice to have a full range of cams (up to #3 Camalot) when you reach the crux so you can put in whatever size seems right. |
By Phil Lauffen
From: Louyuppie
Sep 1, 2009
rating: 5.10a
| I guess by jug I meant the hold I could get all of my fat fingers in and lean back and shake out on right before the strenuous lieback begins. Yeah, you are probably right. I think you could place every piece somewhere.... And yes, I didn't place there I just kept going. So thats probably the best beta. |
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