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 ADVANCED
The Old Woman - West Face
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Band Saw 
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Route 499 
Sexy Grandma 

The Cavity 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Bob Gaines, Dave Mayville, 1/94.
Page Views: 479
Submitted By: Randy on Jan 1, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: The Old Woman - West Face

Description 

This route lies to the right of Dogleg Begin below the left side of a large downpointing "Fang" flake/cave feature (same start as The Fang).

Up the left side of the Fang flake (use 1st bolt on The Fang), then continue up face climbing past 3 more bolts and a horizontal crack to finish at the belay for Dogleg.


Protection 

Pro to 2 inches, 4 bolts.



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By Murf
Jan 10, 2006
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

I believe I did this one a ways back. Poor rock after first bolt and last bolt. No way is it .11d.

By Vernon Stiefel
Jan 10, 2006
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

This climb begins at the same location as the Fang and stays on the left side of the "fang" to the first of four bolts before meandering right. The rock quality improves after the first two bolts and the crux, which is solid at 11d, is on good rock. One or maybe two out of five stars.

Murf, perhaps you are thinking of the route Bridwell - Sustad which is further right and 11a?

By Murf
Jan 11, 2006
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

Vern - I believe you are right, I'm thinking of B-S!

By David Evans
Jan 12, 2006

Is this mismarked in the photo? The marked route was originally a 10b route that traversed off left (Tobin? Mike Wah?). Then the 11b finish was a tr section. Or, has it been bolted up and renamed?

By David Evans
Jan 12, 2006

Or...am I mistaking 1947 for 1247?

By Randy
Jan 13, 2006

DE, the 1947 route number is the (new) route number (for The Cavity) in Joshua Tree West...will be out in March (just sent back the proofs). Sorry about the confusion.

By Adam Kimmerly
Aug 24, 2009

The first bolt is a sketchy star dryvin. The rock from the ground to the roof move is pretty bad. Make the funky, powerful roof move, and traverse up and right to the next bolt, then further right to the third bolt. The crux moved get you to the first horizontal. After multiple failed attempts trying to figure out a way to climb directly up to the horizontal from the bolt, I found a more reasonable set of moves trending a bit right and up. From the horizontal, the climbing eases significantly. Though I hangdogged up this thing on TR, I find it hard to believe it's easier than 11d. The B-S route (aka "Route 499" ?) on the other hand is far better quality and significantly easier.