The Cavity 5.11d
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11c/d [details] |
| FA: | Bob Gaines, Dave Mayville, 1/94. |
| Submitted By: | Randy on Jan 1, 2006 |
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BETA PHOTO: The Old Woman - West Face
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Description This route lies to the right of Dogleg Begin below the left side of a large downpointing "Fang" flake/cave feature (same start as The Fang). Up the left side of the Fang flake (use 1st bolt on The Fang), then continue up face climbing past 3 more bolts and a horizontal crack to finish at the belay for Dogleg.
Protection Pro to 2 inches, 4 bolts.
By Murf Jan 10, 2006 rating: 5.11b
| I believe I did this one a ways back. Poor rock after first bolt and last bolt. No way is it .11d. |
By Vernon Stiefel Jan 10, 2006 rating: 5.11d
| This climb begins at the same location as the Fang and stays on the left side of the "fang" to the first of four bolts before meandering right. The rock quality improves after the first two bolts and the crux, which is solid at 11d, is on good rock. One or maybe two out of five stars. Murf, perhaps you are thinking of the route Bridwell - Sustad which is further right and 11a? |
By Murf Jan 11, 2006 rating: 5.11b
| Vern - I believe you are right, I'm thinking of B-S! |
By David Evans Jan 12, 2006
| Is this mismarked in the photo? The marked route was originally a 10b route that traversed off left (Tobin? Mike Wah?). Then the 11b finish was a tr section. Or, has it been bolted up and renamed? |
By David Evans Jan 12, 2006
| Or...am I mistaking 1947 for 1247? |
By Randy Jan 13, 2006
| DE, the 1947 route number is the (new) route number (for The Cavity) in Joshua Tree West...will be out in March (just sent back the proofs). Sorry about the confusion. |
By Adam Kimmerly Aug 24, 2009
| The first bolt is a sketchy star dryvin. The rock from the ground to the roof move is pretty bad. Make the funky, powerful roof move, and traverse up and right to the next bolt, then further right to the third bolt. The crux moved get you to the first horizontal. After multiple failed attempts trying to figure out a way to climb directly up to the horizontal from the bolt, I found a more reasonable set of moves trending a bit right and up. From the horizontal, the climbing eases significantly. Though I hangdogged up this thing on TR, I find it hard to believe it's easier than 11d. The B-S route (aka "Route 499" ?) on the other hand is far better quality and significantly easier. |
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