|Five Open Books
P1: Take your choice of two cracks off the ground, both of which lead to a tricky traverse right under a roof (a #3 or #4 Camalot comes in handy here). Continue up to belay at a tree. See Photo.
P2: Continue up right-facing corner to another belay tree.
P3: Climb crack and face above tree and traverse right along the path of least resistance to the base of the "Caverns". Belay at a tree.
P4: Several options. Either delve into the depths and chimney up with no pro, climb the face just right of the chimney (also no pro), or climb a somewhat grungy right-facing crack above the belay tree (best option). All options are 5.7. Continue on easier ground to belay at a pine tree.
P5: Scramble right on dirty ground, skirting through the trees. Finish with a short 5.6 crack.
Descend by hiking to climber's left on reasonably well-defined trail.
The fourth "open book" from the left.
Standard rack to 4".
BETA PHOTO: Route showing The Caverns to Selaginella. About 8 ...
John Hoffman working on the second pitch of this i...
Jan 20, 2009
This climb is great! Commitment gets most of the attention at Five Open Books, but I thought this climb was just as good if not better. The roof part is very reminiscent of the Commitment roof, just smaller and a little easier. The second pitch had an awesome hands section, and the last pitch was so fun. I really recommend getting into the chimney and shimmying up it. I would call it (the chimney) 5.6, so the lack of gear is no big deal if you're comfortable at this level. And it feels so adventurous climbing down into the cave/chimney, and then birthing yourself back out!!
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 1, 2010
Tricky, heads-up (or down, in my case) crux and sustained climbing for the grade--made more exciting due to much running water over the route this May!
Except for the finishing pitch (we did it all in 4, not 5), I thought this route was pretty darn good. The color/texture of the rock on some parts of the route was remininscent of ORG tuff for some reason.
From: Oakland CA
Jun 4, 2010
It's that dark slicky stuff from water polish I think. For more rock like that, check out some of the climbs in the lower falls amphitheater.
I did this climb mid may and it was still pretty wet. I figured it's 5.8, no big deal. But as it turned out, it was wet at the crux of every pitch! Made for some fun gear in wet cracks and then tiptoeing onto the slab for some harder but dryer climbing.
Mar 8, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
Just did this for the second time yesterday (7 March 2012). Route was completely dry despite snowfall the day prior. This is probably my favorite of the six first tier routes. Not particularly difficult for Yosemite 5.8. Linked with Selaginella, which is more sustained and physical.
|By Mr Snrub|
From: Bishop, CA
Jun 15, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
A good alternative if Commitment is crowded.
Oct 21, 2012
Pretty fun route. My partner and I both thought the "heady" lieback on the second pitch was harder than the crux first pitch. On the 3rd pitch, supertopo shows cutting over to the caverns themselves and then up 5.4 to the tree that you back up with cams. I thought the more natural line went up further and then traversed to directly under that tree. If you've coiled the rope at the final belay tree and done the 4th class, but dont feel comfortable soloing the short 5.6 section to the descent you can go around it to the right on a climbers trail.
May 7, 2013
Really fun route. Awesome splitter hands and layback on p2. We traversed over dirt ledges to the base of the caverns on p3. Chimney the first ~30' of the cavern and stepped left back into the corner at a big tree. Following the corner up and back across the top of the cavern felt like the headiest climbing on the route...