The Cathedral Route
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The crux of this route is encountered on the first pitch, and consists of a tricky sequence of moves as you move onto and off of the arete at the bottom. This is followed by a series of small edge crimps on lower angled black rock. There is another crux right below the first set of anchors.
Pitch 1: 8 bolts to LO (5.11c)- Follow the bolts through an initial loose section to an arete that leads to lower angled rock full of thin black ledges. Climb this slab to a corner with no more bolts in sight until you move right. Climb past two more bolts on clean gray rock to the anchors and a small belay ledge.
Pitch 2: 7 bolts to LO (5.10b)- Climb up and right from the anchors on clean gray rock. The starting moves are tricky, and felt hard for 5.10-. Follow the black horizontal bands upward. There is a short loose section encountered just before the next anchors.
Pitch 3: 11 bolts to LO (5.11a)- Head up and right from the anchors on good gray rock. The first three bolts through the roof are quite sustained. After about 100 feet of wavy gray rock, and several sustained sections, finish the pitch up a semi loose corner crack to anchors twenty feet below the top of the cliff. I thought this pitch to be more challenging than the first due to the continuously difficult climbing on vertical to slightly overhanging rock.
It is highly recommended that you climb to the summit, especially to see the faces of the surprised hikers as you emerge from the cliff. Another fun alternative is to have someone meet you at the top with a picnic lunch! Be careful as the final 20ft of rock is loose... but easy.
Hint- This route is in the shade most of the day, and has lots of sharp limestone points so be sure to dress appropriately (long sleeves and long pants recommended).
Park just before the Charleston Lodge at the end of S.R. 157, in the Cathedral Rock parking area. Be sure not to park along the streets as I received a $120 ticket for doing so even though the nearest sign instructing people not to do so was 100 feet away! From the parking lot walk up the stairs and take the trail leading off right. Be sure to watch the path for the point where an old water pipe angles left up the hillside (next to a couple felled trees. Follow this up the hill until it comes to an obvious talus slope that continues to the right side of the face at the top. Traverse left along the bottom of the wall until you reach what seems to be an impassable section of 4th/5th class scrambling down a 70 ft staircase. Don't go down! At this point look up to the headwall to your right and you will notice a large (about 6 ft) ledge 60ft up the wall with two small tree/bushes and a set of stainless chains hanging slightly behind them. This can take a few moments to locate... You will need to scramble up to the ledge via the slanted slope/straircase at the base of the wall to the starting anchors.
14 draws (or 12 draws and a couple slings for the bolted anchors).
Hanging at the belay after the first (crux) pitch.
BETA PHOTO: Looking down from the start of the route at the va...
'Clown' shot of Josh and I...
Enjoy the beautiful panoramic views from the summi...
One of my favorite views of Mummy Mountain is from...
Just another pretty chunk of limestone viewed from...
BETA PHOTO: An aproximate topo of the route.
|Comments on The Cathedral Route
|By Josh Audrey|
From: LAS VEGAS
Feb 27, 2007
sweet whipper/sweet rain, i owe this thing another run
|By John Wilder|
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jul 11, 2009
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII E4 6a PG13
personally, i think this route is a little on the sandbagged side- i'd call it more like .11d. Even if the first pitch is .11c, the second is more like .10d and the third is .11b/c at least.
got crushed on it, it was pathetic to watch, really. good route, just be prepared for the sharp edges.
btw- if you're willing to dangle, a single 70m will get you off this thing, but its SUPER close to the ends (you'll be reaching down to the anchor).
two 60ms should get you to the ground from the top of the 2nd pitch, though. we did it with two 70m lines and there was piles of rope on the ground at the base.
|By Luke Stefurak|
From: Mountain View, CA
Aug 3, 2009
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a PG13
I agree that the pitches seem sandbagged. I would say P1- 11d (though maybe because I got really flash pumped) P2- 10c/d and P3- 11b. I also think the route is PG13 since there are some 5.10- sections well above your last bolt on P1 & P3.
I had a total blast and this route deserves more traffic. Crazy edging on the 1st and 2nd pitches on the horizontal quartz bands. The last pitch links features perfectly and goes all the way to the top!
The walkoff is pretty mellow if you don't want to rappel.
|By Xavier Wasiak|
From: Las Vegas, NV
Sep 8, 2009
70 meter rope gets you to the ground no problem in three rappels. Make sure to not pass the last rappel station. Climbed this last weekend, after a few years of having done the route before, and it felt just as hard. :) Ratings are right on, but last pitch feels harder after having done the first two pitches. I'm sure stronger folks than I would not find the last pitch was as heady as I did.. Great route!!!
|By Pete Bresciani|
Jul 15, 2011
Keone and I climbed this today and felt the whole route was heady! :-) We both felt the last pitch was the hardest with it's awkward first 3 bolts, then intimidating bulge to slab move that turned out to be relatively easy, but it steepens again and after some poorer holds in a section of less than stellar white rock (crux), it turns into a pinchfest! Seemed quite a bit harder than 11a!
1) The first pitch has 9 bolts.
2) We rapped with one 70m rope - close, but no dangling.