|Type:||Trad, 8 pitches, 800', Grade II|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|FA:||Jimmy Newberry, Charlie Pitts|
|Submitted By:||jeff haskell on Apr 25, 2006|
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|Comments on The Casual Route||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Ben Collett
Apr 25, 2006
|I think this is the best of the really easy Black Canyon climbs. The climbing is much better and more continuous than Maiden Voyage or the Leisure Route, and you don't have to climb any pegmatite.|
By John Peterson
Oct 21, 2007
Now that I've done both Casual and Casually Off, I'd definitely say Casually Off is the better climb. Casual is nice but really just about 100' of climbing over 5.6 on it.
I'm not sure about either the description here or the one in the guidebook. P3 seemed mostly easy - didn't find any 5.8 on it. It was also fairly long and ended in a small stance where the route divides between the OW and the hand/finger crack. This is the only non-huge ledge on the route. P4 is definitely the money pitch - the hand/finger crack is excellent (but short) and the chimney is big fun. The topo in the book shows slab above the crack but that's a lie. The chimney turned out to be well protected (didn't need any big gear either - the #3 and #4 stayed on the rack) and a lot of fun - once you get going there are good stemming options on the walls. The crux is definitely the top of the chimney (green Camalot at the very top). Not a good pitch to wear a pack on! I stepped left and traversed to a short layback above the chimney to avoid the overhanging step above.
The book shows a belay below the chimney, but this would make the previous pitch just 40' and the next one 50'. So, I can't see why you would do this.
Climbing this late season (mid-October), there was no sun till about 2:30 or so. Casually Off Route seemed to be even shadier and had snow in the cracks. All of Casual was dry except for the exit gullies.
By Jason Cook 71
Aug 5, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
|It is true that there are many variations on this climb. The chimney was the fun part for me due to the wedging of the body to get into it. I disagree with the other comment that it is better than Maiden. Very easy in my opinion. Half or fewer pithes of this climb are not worth climbing if you like The Black for its pucker factor.|
By Rich F.
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Sep 3, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
|Climbed some variant of the Casual Route on Saturday, and maybe the toughest part was figuring out where the route went after the finger crack at the start of pitch 2. I upclimbed and downclimbed several places trying to make sense of where I was on the route but did not see anything like the pictures submitted by John Peterson. On our pitch 3, we were more or less above the pitch 2 finger crack and climbed a wide crack formed by a left-facing dihedral which required a short layback move at the top to get onto the belay ledge -- we did not see a 5.7 finger crack nearby. Pitch 4 included a fun, short layback, followed by an undercling above it that went horizontally to the left for about 20 feet, and finished below a short tight chimney. Getting in and out of that short 12-foot chimney above the undercling was by far the toughest part of the entire climb for me. Pitch 6 was easy, then we finished by climbing the nice sharp arete near the top on pitch 7.|