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The Capstan

Select Route:
Just Right 
Oxman Arete (aka Daydreamer Direct SDS) 
South Crack 
Trough Direct SDS, The 
West Face [The Capstan] TR 

The Capstan  


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Page Views: 9,859
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Michael Komarnitsky on Jan 1, 2001
Forecast:
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Chance of a Thunderstorm
59° | 39°
Clear
64° | 37°
Clear
61° | 45°
Clear
73° | 48°
Clear
73° | 48°
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Description 

great rock, with some difficult boulder problems at the base and some highball boulder problems/short TR climbs. Huecos line the lower third of the rock and are filled with chalk, making it immediately noticable from the road. For TR: Two nice horns are perfect for two five foot slings. Access to the top is via an easier boulder problem on the north side just off the road. There's a hard-to-see crimper on the slight gully up the rock that makes the problem much easier; above that it's an easy scramble. Watch out for cars.

Getting There 

1.4 miles up Baseline (measured from the fire danger sign) at the hairpin turn. It's hard to miss. You can park on the left side of the road (driving up the road) and park directly underneath.

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.9 miles from here

5 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',1],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',1],['V8-9',2],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Capstan:
South Crack   V2 5+ X     Boulder   
Just Right   V7 7A+     Boulder   
The Trough Direct SDS   V8 7B     Boulder   
Oxman Arete (aka Daydreamer Direct SDS)   V9 7C     Boulder, 15'   
West Face [The Capstan]   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     TR, 1 pitch   
Browse More Classics in The Capstan

Featured Route For The Capstan
Only the beginning of Just Right.

Just Right V7 7A+  CO : Boulder : ... : The Capstan
This is a historic Flagstaff testpiece and definitely the most public of Flagstaff's harder problems, sitting only 15 feet from the road.Just Right climbs the overhanging southeast side of Capstan Rock and is above the right edge of the platform facing the road. It features an obvious lunge move to a sloping but well-textured pocket high and right.Originally (and most commonly) done with a cheater stone start that allows you to reach the opposing sidepulls seven feet up, Just Right has also been...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of The Capstan Slideshow Add Photo
Copperhead at the Capstan... <br /> <br />    ...yeah, someone just smashed a penny     into the rock.
Copperhead at the Capstan...

...yeah, someone...

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