The Caped One
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Parachute is divided into two sections. The left broad slabby area, and up and right the alcove. The righthand end of the slabby area is terminated by a short wall of boulders with an easy access upwards to the alcove. At the righthand end of the slab is a narrow face bordered on the left by a bushy 5.5 crack and on the right by the arete formed by the right edge of the face. This route climbs the righthand fingercrack on the narrow face. Start just to the left of the short wall of boulders at the far right side of the face. Climb the face to the crack. At the crack place good gear and do the crux. Above this the crack offers some good 5.8 thincracking till about 50 feet. At this point the angle lowers and provides about another 40 ft of 5.6 cracks and slabs. This is a really nice pitch and well worth doing if you are at Parachute.
I used a few stoppers a couple of small cams and a #3.5 Friend on this lead.The first 10 feet has no gear and is about 5.7. Once in the crack the gear is excellent. Climbs to the 2 bolt anchor above the "5.9 Alcove Route" which can easily be used for lowering, toproping, etc.
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