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DescriptionThe Canyon is the narrow shady canyon formed by the two huge sandstone conglomerate domes nearest to the parking area. The Canyon can be accessed from either end, north or south, but the most straight forward is by walking around the south end of The Chicken (aka Hyperion Slab) and following the trail as it winds to the right (north) and walk uphill between the The Egg (on the left) and The Chicken (huge formation on the right). There are climbs on both the west and east walls of The Canyon. Many easy and moderate sport climbs ascend the lower angled east (right) wall of The Canyon, while routes on the west wall range from 5.9 - 5.11. Getting ThereFrom the parking area, walk up the road past the locked white gate. Continue up the road for ~ 100 yds. until the crag comes into sight and take the dirt track, on the right, that diagonals down toward the crag with the caves on its east face (The Chicken/Hyperion Slab). Follow the dirt track down the hill and skirt the south end of the large slab (Hyperion Slab) and continue until the trail winds to the north (right) and up the hill into The Canyon. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Canyon:
Acme Top Rope Wall 5.7 Sport, TR, 50 feet
Agua Negro 5.8 Sport, 1 pitch, 110 feet
Middle Earth 5.9 Trad, 2 pitches, 150 feet
Itsy Bitsy Spider (climbed up the water spout) 5.10a Sport, 1 pitch, 85 feet
Featured Route For The Canyon
Unknown 5.11a (a.k.a. the Booty Route) 5.11a CA : Los Angeles County : ... : The Canyon
The Booty Route climbs pockets, scoops, and edges on the steep west wall of The Canyon/east wall of The Jukebox. The route passes a bulge or small roof feature at mid-height. Above the bulge the angle decreases and the route follows the knobby slab, passing left of a large block on the arete, to the top. There are chains to the climber's right....[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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