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The Canyon
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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Acme Top Rope Wall 
Agua Negro 
Before The Storm 
Brand X Top Rope Wall 
Itsy Bitsy Spider (climbed up the water spout) 
Middle Earth 
Pocket Change 
Sophie's Choice 
Spider's Line 
Unknown 5.11a (a.k.a. the Booty Route) 
Unsorted Routes:

The Canyon 


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Administrators: jt512, M.Morley, Sam Vanderhyden, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Benjamin Chapman on May 25, 2011

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The Egg, The Canyon, & The Chicken (Hyperion Slab)...

Description 

The Canyon is the narrow shady canyon formed by the two huge sandstone conglomerate domes nearest to the parking area. The Canyon can be accessed from either end, north or south, but the most straight forward is by walking around the south end of The Chicken (aka Hyperion Slab) and following the trail as it winds to the right (north) and walk uphill between the The Egg (on the left) and The Chicken (huge formation on the right). There are climbs on both the west and east walls of The Canyon. Many easy and moderate sport climbs ascend the lower angled east (right) wall of The Canyon, while routes on the west wall range from 5.9 - 5.11.


Getting There 

From the parking area, walk up the road past the locked white gate. Continue up the road for ~ 100 yds. until the crag comes into sight and take the dirt track, on the right, that diagonals down toward the crag with the caves on its east face (The Chicken/Hyperion Slab). Follow the dirt track down the hill and skirt the south end of the large slab (Hyperion Slab) and continue until the trail winds to the north (right) and up the hill into The Canyon.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Canyon:
Acme Top Rope Wall   5.7     Sport, TR, 50 feet   
Agua Negro   5.8     Sport, 1 pitch, 110 feet   
Middle Earth   5.9     Trad, 2 pitches, 150 feet   
Itsy Bitsy Spider (climbed up the water spout)   5.10a     Sport, 1 pitch, 85 feet   
Browse More Classics in The Canyon

Featured Route For The Canyon
The climber in the lower right foreground is on the Unknown 5.11a route.  <br />photo by Spider Savage

Unknown 5.11a (a.k.a. the Booty Route) 5.11a  CA : Los Angeles County : ... : The Canyon
The Booty Route climbs pockets, scoops, and edges on the steep west wall of The Canyon/east wall of The Jukebox. The route passes a bulge or small roof feature at mid-height. Above the bulge the angle decreases and the route follows the knobby slab, passing left of a large block on the arete, to the top. There are chains to the climber's right....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA


Photos of The Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
Looking into The Canyon, from the north.

Looking into The Canyon, from the north.

The Canyon is full of quality climbing from 5.8 to 5.11. Climbers (from left to right) on  an unnamed 5.11a, "Itsy Bitsy Spider" 5.10a, and another unnamed 5.8

The Canyon is full of quality climbing from 5.8 to...

Suzi leads in The Canyon.

Suzi leads in The Canyon.

The east face of the Jukebox, which forms the west wall of The Canyon.

The east face of the Jukebox, which forms the west...

A new sprig of the "Evil Weed" appears to be enjoying the moist spring-like conditions at the south entrance to The Canyon.

A new sprig of the "Evil Weed" appears to be enjoy...

Climbers on "Middle Earth" and "Pocket Change," respectively.

Climbers on "Middle Earth" and "Pocket Change," re...

Another beautiful day of climbing in The Canyon.

Another beautiful day of climbing in The Canyon.

What are these pallets doing in The Canyon? If you're going to pack them in, PACK THEM OUT!!!

What are these pallets doing in The Canyon? If you...

A young Southern Pacific Rattlesnake traversing The Canyon at the base of "Aqua Negro/Itsy Bitsy Spider."

A young Southern Pacific Rattlesnake traversing Th...

Climbing steep pockets and inclusions in The Canyon.

Climbing steep pockets and inclusions in The Canyo...

Climbing in the cool shady recesses of The Canyon on a warm late spring day.

Climbing in the cool shady recesses of The Canyon ...


Comments on The Canyon Add Comment
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By Jeff Edge
Apr 29, 2013

Climbed the next route to the right of Booty Route, felt like mid to upper 10 (c/d maybe?). Crux was definitely easier than booty route's, anybody got any actual info on this climb? Just curious what I am climbing. You can put it on TR if you rap to its anchors from the anchors to booty route.
Also curious what the next few routes immediately to the right are, looked at them but didn't end up getting on any. Any info?