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Quality hard basalt crack climbs a few feet above a remote section of the Rio Grande. Expect solitude, eagles and osprey, and a glorious setting. The wall is mostly east by southeast facing. Summer can be too hot in the direct sun, but ideal on mornings and evenings. Fall is the best time to climb here. See "Taos Rock" for location and route descriptions. There is a wade-in sand bottom swimming hole right in front of the crag.
Approach from car is about 30-45 minutes (depending on water level). Save something for the hike back out.
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Featured Route For The Candy Store
Kid in a Candy Store 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c NM : Taos Area : ... : The Candy Store
Start in the chossy crack system just right of the main crack system. Climb up 15 feet and place adequate gear before stepping over left into the main crack system.The rock quality improves as you climb higher. The jams are steep but bomber. Near the top of the crack you will find the crux which is well protected by gear near your feet. Stellar line! On the kid. ...[more] Browse More Classics in NM
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