The first crag on the left heading up Clear Creek always caught the eye but was a pain to access. This all changed when JCOS put in a new foot bridge. With surprisingly excellent CCC rock, the crag holds the shade through the mornings until around 2:00 in the summer and stays shady all day in the fall.
For steeper, more challenging routes check out The Twilight Zone, just past The Canal Zone perched on the hillside above.
Park in the first pullout on the left, right after you enter the canyon. Walk East on the dirt road that leaves the East end of the lot, past the gate, down to the canal road. Head back West on the canal road to the bridge. For a more direct approach, pick one of the erosional, steep, loose, grotty, gullies beyond the parking lot and descend directly to the foot bridge.
A bit longer but more enjoyable approach to the bridge can be had by parking near the Golden Recreation Center at the West end of 10th Street and walking the river path West, under the highway, up river to the foot bridge.
Cross the bridge and take a left on the Canal Zone / Twilight Zone Climbing Access Trail. When the trail levels out at the canal, turn right and walk about 1/4 mile to the crag.
Thin sustained crimps, cool movement, and intricate footwork lead up a steep line. Avoid the bailout left and stay on course through the last clip for full value. A two bolt variation to start adds to the fun; Snake Eyes comes in from the left, starting just right of Turkey Jerky, and pulls through two amazing huecos to clip the second bolt on Ghost....[more]Browse More Classics in CO
Great area, loved the 3 routes I did, can't wait to get back to do some more!! Watch out for rattlesnakes, they don't seem to be too afraid of us up there, but don't take your chance. I had one slither by us less than 3 feet away from me and some other climbers. He just went into a corner and watched us, not rattling or anything, but still I would be very watchful of these dangerous guys!!
Every one of these routes has something to offer in the way of fun climbing. Well-protected crux moves make it a good place to push one's level on lead. I think it will be interesting to see what the consensus for route grades become after they clean up a bit more with increased traffic. All-in-all, another great addition to CCC.
Thanks to Kirk Miller for this great addition to CCC. I really enjoyed all the routes I was able to get on today. All are well-bolted with good anchor positions and the movement is fantastic! Thanks for the investment.
Great new crag. Perfect to start with before heading to the Twilight Zone. Definitely beware of rattlers. We saw two today (one right at the crag and one in the bush on the trail leading in.) Neither warned us it was in the area. I am more cautious of the snake that snaps at you without warning than the snake that tells you to "get the heck out of here".
The trail and crag are on Jefferson County Open Space land, specifically Clear Creek Canyon Park. The Trails Department is aware of the issue. I'm hopeful that we'll see a better access become available soon.
RE: Rattlesnakes Fri 7/23 4:15pm Encountered one - approx 36" x 1 1/4" rattler partially on the trail about 100ft East of the actual cliff. Suspect was completely silent until we rolled rocks it's way, activating its warning system. Lots of poison ivy along the trail, too.
Be alert as these snakes are apparently not required to warn of their presence.
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Jul 27, 2010
Another couple friends reported a rattler on the horizontal part of the approach this summer in prior to the above noted snake. One nearly stepped on or next to it. Beware!
As everyone else as said, a big thank you to those who put up these routes, it's great to have a crag with so many nice moderates right around the corner!
I'm new to climbing in this area (East Coast transplant), and I came here for the first time last week. I noticed that all the climbing parties there were lowering directly through the bolts. Where I learned to climb, this is a serious abuse of the crag as it wears the bolts down. Is this considered kosher in this area?
Would people be interested in doing a little work on the trail to the crag? Personally I think it would be nice if an established trail was created that way the approach, both the portion straight down from the parking lot and the portion that goes up the other side of the river are pretty steep and they are seeing very heavy erosion.
If we (climbers) could put in some timber or something to ease out this approach, it would be really nice, especially in such a beginner friendly area.
Keith, Open Space is working on it. Please don't make any improvements, doing so is actually a violation of Open Space Rules & Regulations. We are planning on bringing people up the old road grade that can be accessed by turning left after crossing the bridge. This is taking some time because the ditch is actually still owned by the ditch company. Before we can make any improvements or do anything to officially direct people up to the ditch, we have to go through the proper legal channels.
Mike Morin Park Ranger Jefferson County Open Space
Mike, I had no intention of doing anything without talking you and having you run the event. I have done some work for Mike in Eldo and the people in RMNP. All I would be offering is to find you free slave labor.
AGAIN: THIS IS THEORETICAL ONLY!!!!! THIS IS NOT A SUGGESTION TO DO SOMETHING JUST TRYING TO FIND OUT ABOUT PEOPLE'S INTEREST IN DOING SOMETHING.
This has been a real fun place to climb for my wife and I. Every time we go there are a lot of people (I would estimate 30+ today). So you may want to try somewhere else if you want to be alone or go mid week.
Also I saw multiple groups TR through the chains today. There is really nothing that can be done about it besides educate people but it was a sad thing to see.
Belay device found Easter Sunday, 2013. Describe the device, biner, markings, etc. and it's yours.... I just moved here from Tucson, AZ, did the 1st Flatiron Saturday, found a cam, and then found this belay device Sunday... So far I am 2 for 2 in terms of finding booty every time I go climbing here in CO.... Hopefully it continues!!!
Also what is the name (if it has a name) of the big bloc down in the canyon directly below this wall? Thx.
I believe I left three draws (green, BD) near Made in the Shade when I was packing up in the dark the other night (7/10/13). I would greatly appreciate them back if they have been found; email@example.com. Thanks!