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The Campground 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Douglas Snively?
Page Views: 1,387
Submitted By: Jim McGuire on Jan 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Campground (behind the giant tree on the right sid...

Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

As the only moderate offering on the right side of the Book, this is a great route especially if you want to sneak in a quick climb with rapid escape options. Large overhangs guard the lower part of the wall right of the Mission Impossible dihedral. This route follows a crack system through the only reasonable (for mere mortals anyway), break through the overhangs, just right of Fascist Drill in the West.

Start up a pair of cracks and angle right through the overhang at a finger crack (crux, 5.7+). Continue up the nice, steep 5.6 handcrack above to a stance next to a small tree on the right. It is possible to rap off to the right here at the tree or continue up the lower angled and ever-widening crack above to where it turns into a chimney.

Descend to the right, eastward.

This is a long 150+ foot pitch and protects very well.

Protection 

Standard rack with extra larger pieces for the top half of the route.


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By Clint Locks
From: Boulder
Jun 28, 2005
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

A great primer for the Lumpy neophyte. There are 2 roof options. We did the left one. The right one looks intruiging, perhaps a bit harder.

Definitely head all the way up the pitch, then escape up, over, and right, intersecting with the 'descent proper'.
By goatboywonder
Apr 29, 2011
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

We did a pretty cool alternate second pitch on this. Instead of heading up we headed out climber's left, following small roof that angles up and left. Your feet are just at the lip of another lower roof, giving the traverse a pretty airy feel. After about 50 feet of traversing, you run into the Fender Gully. Instead of thrasing up that, look for a thin, right-angling crack that that gives you access to the slab above you. Strike out onto the slab. I was able to protect it with a slung flake (use a big cam to weight it and keep it in place), a yellow C3 and 0.75 C4. I am guessing it is about 5.7ish.
By goatboywonder
Apr 29, 2011
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

If you don't have large gear, you can avoid the upper chimney on the first pitch by zig-zagging out left.