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Campground (behind the giant tree on the right sid...
As the only moderate offering on the right side of the Book, this is a great route especially if you want to sneak in a quick climb with rapid escape options. Large overhangs guard the lower part of the wall right of the Mission Impossible dihedral. This route follows a crack system through the only reasonable (for mere mortals anyway), break through the overhangs, just right of Fascist Drill in the West.
Start up a pair of cracks and angle right through the overhang at a finger crack (crux, 5.7+). Continue up the nice, steep 5.6 handcrack above to a stance next to a small tree on the right. It is possible to rap off to the right here at the tree or continue up the lower angled and ever-widening crack above to where it turns into a chimney.
Descend to the right, eastward.
This is a long 150+ foot pitch and protects very well.
Standard rack with extra larger pieces for the top half of the route.
|Comments on The Campground
|By Clint Locks|
Jun 28, 2005
A great primer for the Lumpy neophyte. There are 2 roof options. We did the left one. The right one looks intruiging, perhaps a bit harder.
Definitely head all the way up the pitch, then escape up, over, and right, intersecting with the 'descent proper'.
Apr 29, 2011
We did a pretty cool alternate second pitch on this. Instead of heading up we headed out climber's left, following small roof that angles up and left. Your feet are just at the lip of another lower roof, giving the traverse a pretty airy feel. After about 50 feet of traversing, you run into the Fender Gully. Instead of thrasing up that, look for a thin, right-angling crack that that gives you access to the slab above you. Strike out onto the slab. I was able to protect it with a slung flake (use a big cam to weight it and keep it in place), a yellow C3 and 0.75 C4. I am guessing it is about 5.7ish.
Apr 29, 2011
If you don't have large gear, you can avoid the upper chimney on the first pitch by zig-zagging out left.
|By austin luper|
Jun 12, 2012
Fun pitch. I took the right crack. It is very good climbing. The chimney at the top is nothing to worry about. I only had a number 4. You can move out on the face to super easy climbing very soon after getting it in.