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Climb the leaning, overhanging, corner crack just right of "Dead Line." Bicep pumping, under-clinging, crack fusion madness and solid, core tension coupled with a delicate dose of old school foot smearing should see you though to the more perplexing moves of pulling around the bulge and into the right-facing corner that joins with the ending of "Rebellion" and "Victim of Circumstance."
Great line!! Both powerful and technical climbing that is sure to entertain all those who attempt this obvious and attractive old school classic. Don't get ahead of yourself on this route and you should do fine.
Either 2nd the line on (TR) to clean it or continue to the summit (not recommended) via 1 or 2 short pitches if you wish. Beware of lose rock towards the summit if topping out "Castle Rock."
It's possible to (TR) this line by climbing "Rebellion" if you can get some gear in just around and under the crux bulge. Still...it's a much better lead!!
Located in the big roof area on the west side of "Castle Rock" just right of "Dead Line." It's the right-most, leaning, roof crack just before you turn the corner heading towards "Rebellion" and "Crank It."
Gear to about 2 inches. Fixed anchor that is shared with "Rebellion" and "Victim of Circumstance."
|Comments on The Campaigner
|By Andrew Walters|
From: Grand Junction, CO
Sep 12, 2012
Just got back from a rainy day aid practice session and this route was perfect. Great gear, and totally dry as opposed to the A2 roof crack next door.