2014 Update: The U.S. Forest Service has reopened Eagle Rock and Security Risk climbing areas in Boulder Canyon which have been closed since Feb. 1 to protect golden eagles during their nesting season. Blob Rock and Bitty Buttress areas remain CLOSED.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
Climb the leaning, overhanging, corner crack just right of "Dead Line." Bicep pumping, under-clinging, crack fusion madness and solid, core tension coupled with a delicate dose of old school foot smearing should see you though to the more perplexing moves of pulling around the bulge and into the right-facing corner that joins with the ending of "Rebellion" and "Victim of Circumstance."
Great line!! Both powerful and technical climbing that is sure to entertain all those who attempt this obvious and attractive old school classic. Don't get ahead of yourself on this route and you should do fine.
Either 2nd the line on (TR) to clean it or continue to the summit (not recommended) via 1 or 2 short pitches if you wish. Beware of lose rock towards the summit if topping out "Castle Rock."
It's possible to (TR) this line by climbing "Rebellion" if you can get some gear in just around and under the crux bulge. Still...it's a much better lead!!
Located in the big roof area on the west side of "Castle Rock" just right of "Dead Line." It's the right-most, leaning, roof crack just before you turn the corner heading towards "Rebellion" and "Crank It."
Gear to about 2 inches. Fixed anchor that is shared with "Rebellion" and "Victim of Circumstance."
I removed the 2nd pin (#3 angle). It was loose and damaged. I did not replace it as it is not needed...plenty of gear(small cams). I also removed the first pin (#1 angle). It was damaged as well but not as bad as the second pin. I replaced it with a brand new one. Now it's a little safer and solid for some whippin' and such.