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By Eric Coffman
Aug 1, 2012
mountainlion

This past weekend I had a very humbling experience. I had a friend who wanted to climb harder than I currently can, but I was game for the day. I didnt really expect to send and maybe that was part of the problem. I did try to onsight lead 2 of the routes and followed the other here is a synopsis:

12a scary as shit on lead felt like I was going to deck getting the clips, made it to 2 bolts so I was actually pleased.

11c/d followed first but was glad to be following, didnt send even following.

11c/d jumped down from 15 feet (pumping out holding a fingerpocket while trying to slap for a jug to get the first clip at least 10 times. Finally got the clip and made it 4 bolts. Ran out of gas.

evaluation: I dont have the technique, strength, balance, or footwork to begin to send any of these routes on lead. Biggest problem from my POV was fingerpockets and single finger handles definite lack of strength.

What is a good training program for developing the fingerstrength needed for finger pockets (I am primarily a crack climber). I dont want to injure any tendons by overtraining and I still want to primarily lead climb 5.11a/b. (as I improve).


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By NorCalNomad
From San Francisco
Aug 1, 2012

CSB....

Climbing, and bucket of rice for hand training


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By Javier L
From Asheville, NC
Aug 2, 2012
Bermuda, DWS

How about hangboard training on 2 finger pockets? Or on the HIT strips. Do something systematically and you'll see results. And check out the training forum.


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By Superclimber
Aug 2, 2012

Pffft…sounds like you had a pretty good day. I'm happy to be getting consistent on 10's, so I don't want to hear it. Maybe I should I get a bucket of rice too;)


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By Eric Coffman
Aug 2, 2012
mountainlion

thanks Chris I did have good day. i'm just tired of watching all of my friends climb harder than I do. First at jtree and now here in the philippines too. Dont get me wrong i love to see my friends crush but for once I want to send the hardest route of the day.


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By BigJuggsjohnson
Aug 3, 2012
Stones

pulling pockets is very hard on your digits. I heard u should try not to split your hand too much meaning when u place a pocket keep the rest of your hand close to the loaded finger. Its hard to do . Your age and weight could be an issue. If your partner is a local their pound per pound strength is different than the caucasian foulks. Its great to be pushed by your buddies though. good for you!
p.s. good training book : how to climb 5.12 don't overdo it though and dropping pounds will help too.


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By Eric Coffman
Aug 3, 2012
mountainlion

thanks bugs, yeah my friends are the locals here. They live in the town Cantabaco literally minutes from the cliff. Real strong and alot lighter than I am. But I dont think I can get much lighter I dont have a scale here but I gotta have a 31-32 inch waist right now. If I was to guess I'm 190. I weighed 175 when I was 16 and I know that isnt possible now unless I go eating disorder crazy.


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By BigJuggsjohnson
Aug 3, 2012
Stones

your weight of 190 lbs though healthy and not obese may play against your tendons so spare them even if it comes at a cost of not crushing the hardest grade among your buddies. U got your crack climbing skills and im sure bigger hands than your friends so excell there and let the more petit dudes take the prize on pockets and crimps. Best of luck!


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By Old and Busted
From Centennial, CO
Aug 3, 2012
Stabby

Stick clip the 1st bolts if they're too high. 190 lbs. is too much for successful hard pocket climbing, you have the same tendons as a 145 lb. dude does. Learn how to backstep more, twist up on the lock-offs. Climb a lot but don't overtrain.


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By Eric Coffman
Aug 3, 2012
mountainlion

good advice Delta Bravo, point well taken.


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By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Aug 3, 2012
Stoked...

Delta Bravo wrote:
Stick clip the 1st bolts if they're too high. 190 lbs. is too much for successful hard pocket climbing, you have the same tendons as a 145 lb. dude does. Learn how to backstep more, twist up on the lock-offs. Climb a lot but don't overtrain.


Def agree with this... hang board - hangtime is really good for contact strength. pinches are good too, leave the killer crimps behind.

One thing (albeit silly looking) that really really really worked well for me to get me twisting was to find a pump wall (15 deg overhanging) or so with a decent med/hard climb, and find a way to prevent your elbows from bending. Now try to climb the wall... you have to twist ur way up the wall. I used to use setting tape and tape up my elbows so I couldn't bend them, it really hurt taking the tape off but I was able to all but fully prevent my elbows from bending. The second and subsequent times I wore a long sleeve shirt. Goofy as hell but man does it work!

Substitute rice bucket with fast rapid finger flicks with your arms held out straight in front of you...


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By Old and Busted
From Centennial, CO
Aug 3, 2012
Stabby

I'm 210 to 215, 6'0. Been at this long enough that my tendons are OK, grip strength not too bad. My failures come with my shoulders and lats of all things. On tweaky routes, I have a very limited amount of lock-offs before my lats go jelly on me. If I train those hard in the gym, I get much better results once I recover for a few days. In other words, as a big guy you have different issues than what most folks here deal with.
Also, the mind is really the key. Learn to trance yourself into envisioning a successful send. I mean really get into a trance; the kind where you elevate your heart rate while being still.


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By BigJuggsjohnson
Aug 3, 2012
Stones

Delta Bravo wrote:
I'm 210 to 215, 6'0. Been at this long enough that my tendons are OK, grip strength not too bad. My failures come with my shoulders and lats of all things. On tweaky routes, I have a very limited amount of lock-offs before my lats go jelly on me. If I train those hard in the gym, I get much better results once I recover for a few days. In other words, as a big guy you have different issues than what most folks here deal with. Also, the mind is really the key. Learn to trance yourself into envisioning a successful send. I mean really get into a trance; the kind where you elevate your heart rate while being still.

to be honest theres some strange stuff here...no offence...
btw Bravo just said same exact thing i said but no one understood me , obviously...


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By Eric Coffman
Aug 3, 2012
mountainlion

All good points --I didnt miss your tendon comment either Bugs. It's good to hear all of the advice. I will try to add the lock-offs and drop knees as well as the twisting tip. I see lots of people do these moves but I rarely do. My technique is usually just trying really hard and when that fails, I try brute strength if that fails. I usually am to burnt to try anything else. I like the trance idea I need to get into more visualization and meditation. I may have defeated myself before even attempting because I didnt believe I could do it before I even started.


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By Zappatista
Aug 3, 2012
Book me, officer.

Eric Coffman wrote:
All good points --I didnt miss your tendon comment either Bugs. It's good to hear all of the advice. I will try to add the lock-offs and drop knees as well as the twisting tip. I see lots of people do these moves but I rarely do. My technique is usually just trying really hard and when that fails, I try brute strength if that fails. I usually am to burnt to try anything else. I like the trance idea I need to get into more visualization and meditation. I may have defeated myself before even attempting because I didnt believe I could do it before I even started.


I get it now. Ellenor Coffman. Sexchange in the Phillipines. That this is posted in General rather than Training pegs it as a cry for attention.

How many accounts ya up to, now? PM me if yer shy..
Airbrushed but realer than a dozen troll accounts...
Airbrushed but realer than a dozen troll accounts...


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By BigJuggsjohnson
Aug 3, 2012
Stones

All Killer No Filler wrote:
I get it now. Ellenor Coffman. Sexchange in the Phillipines. That this is posted in General rather than Training pegs it as a cry for attention. How many accounts ya up to, now? PM me if yer shy..

Yep dude. U got me. Well I was born this way what can I say. And the docs here are freaking awesome and cheap as hell. I got me a private maid and a cook!


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By Glenn Schuler
From Monument, Co.
Aug 3, 2012
A grey fox skull wedged in a crack 100' up on a FA I was working on - don't see that every day...

BigJuggsjohnson wrote:
but no one understood me , obviously...


and this surprises you?


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