Climb the first pitch via stemming up the corner and good incut holds. This pitch checks in at 5.10c and has its own anchor at the ledge. This is an enjoyable pitch in its own right.
Above the anchor of that first pitch is a gem of a face climb, with a pronounced crux at the 2nd or 3rd bolt, checking in at 5.11b. Finish with great climbing on the arete and some huge bucket hauling to the upper anchor. The bolts are generously spaced out up high and it's possible to bring some small to medium sized cams but it's also pretty easy terrain.
If you do this climb with one rope, tie a knot in the end of the rope and have some slings handy, because it's a stretch with a 70 meter rope to get down and will entail belayer and climber going up to the first bolt to make it happen.
On the left side of the Skillet is a nose feature. On the right side of that nose is Nose Job, a 10b climbing an open corner. On the left side of that nose is this route, The Camel head, climbing another corner feature, although this corner is more of a 90 degree corner, on darker rock.
13 bolts according to the book but seems like more. Long slings helpful when linking the two pitches.
|By Michael Schneiter|
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Nov 2, 2009
At the beginning of the second pitch there are several holds marked with an "x" including one large flake that is seriously loose but didn't have an "x" on it before yesterday. It has an "x" now but be careful climbing through this section.