The Calling (aka Night Vision)
WI4 M3-4 PG13
||Mixed, Ice, 5 pitches, 700', Grade III
|Consensus: ||WI4 M3-4 [details]|
|Season: ||Winter (cold or cloudy Day)|
|Page Views: ||1,643|
|Submitted By: ||IanA on Jan 17, 2011|
||2 people like this page. Your opinion:
Lots of falling ice! Don't look up.
This is the most prominent/ obvious flow on the Outward Bound Wall. The guidebook calls this route 4 pitches, but we broke it into 5 to minimize rope drag and maximize belayer comfort/protection from falling ice.
Pitch 1: M3-4, 40m. This pitch can either be good ice, easy mixed or pure rock. Climb up to pin anchor on the right of the flow.
Pitch 2: WI3 30m This pitch follows a left-leaning ramp build an anchor just below the pillar.
Pitch 3: WI4/4+, 30m. Climb up nice curtain to a short, steep pillar. Belay off pin anchor on the right.
Pitch 4: WI3, 60m. Climb a short steep section or traverse further right to avoid the steep stuff and continue up rock/ice grove to pin anchor on the left.
Pitch 5: WI3, 50m. Climb easy ice and snow to a belay stance on the left at the top of the ice.
Descent: Continue up snow to big tree on the left that has slings on it. Rap 1: Do a full 60m rap to a good snow ledge. Be careful to not rap off the ends on the rope. Rap 2: (either downclimb to the anchor atop pitch 4 10m below you or climb up to small tree and rig short rappel to pin anchor on left.) Rap 3: 50m rap down to the pin anchor atop pitch 3. Rap 4: 50m down the steep pillar to pin anchor top pitch 1 on the right of the flow. (might be covered in ice). Rap 5: 40m to the ground.
Hike up the road into Eureka just like you were going to do the gullies. Just after you pass the Outward Bound hut on your right, start going uphill (left) through the trees to the base of the climb.
Two ropes, lots of stubby ice screws, a good selection of pins, nuts and a few small cams (green Alien to #0.75 Camalot).
Eric on the pillar of pitch 3.
On the approach. Lower half of the route in view.
Eric on pitch 2.
BETA PHOTO: Photo topo.
Jan 19, 2011
I've also heard this one called Night Vision...the main chimney/chockstone route to the climber's left is White Trash.
From: Durango, Colorado
Jul 9, 2011
rating: WI4 M3-4
This was a great route and I was psyched we finally got to do it! Seems like catching this thing in the right conditions is the crux. This wall gets baked with sun, kinda need a cloudy/cool day.