The Caged 5.12d
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Good page?   |
| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.12c/d [details] |
| FA: | Scott Stevenson 1992 |
| Submitted By: | lee hansche on Jan 11, 2007 |
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jeff at the crux of THe Caged
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Description A very steep route with one really hard move....
Follow the steep line of good holds out toward the roof...there are many ways of doing the crux section. but they are all hard...I exit right matching on a bad crimpy rail moving to a good pinch.... Swing your feet right to slopey feet...A few moderate moves lead to a single quick shut....
I hear rumor of trick beta, please comment if you have any to add....
Location The obvious roof out the middle/right side of the crag....
Protection 5 bolts to 1 quick shut (I think the other one went missing)... Cleaning this rt is a pain.... At present, there is a fixed biner on the last bolt, most people clean the rt. from this point to avoid the nast edge your rope runs over if you are clipped to the top....
Looking out the cave at a climber on the caged
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jeff cruxing
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Jeff leaving the lay down rest and getting ready f...
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What!
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Jeff escaping from The Caged
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you can see the whole route from here as jeff bust...
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By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Aug 15, 2007
| Yes there is trick beta, but that would kind of ruin the fun of figuring it out, wouldn't it? |
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 15, 2007
| i just cant figure out weather my beta is "trick" or not... it is way easier than what i see most folks trying... |
By seth hamel
Aug 29, 2007
| Walked by the caged today and the bail biner is gone. Cleaning this on the anchors is a pain. |
By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Jan 9, 2011
| Maybe I've been bouldering at the gym too much lately.. but I didn't find the bad rail to be that bad. The anchors are a single, gate-less cold shut (with a loop of rope hanging down from it) and a hanger-less bolt. If you're staring these in the face... you've made it! Cleaning biners were conveniently in place on the last two bolts. Wish someone left my cleaning biner on Jedi Mind Tricks - oh well. |
By S. Neoh
Jan 10, 2011
| Glad to learn that the cleaning biners we left on this route 2 summers ago are still there for people to use. |
By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
May 7, 2011
| Why?? ... why don't I just keep walking up the hill. :( |
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
May 8, 2011
| jeff, the wand chooses the wizard... |
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
May 8, 2011
| You should have just kept walking Jeff... |
By CaptainMo
Administrator
Sep 4, 2012
| the trick beta is fun... |
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