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 ADVANCED
Darth Vader
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Caged, The S 
Darth Vader T 
Jedi Mind Tricks S 
Oby-won Ryobi S 
Prawn, The S 
Sand People, The S 
Spaceballs: The Rock Climb T 
Storm Troopers S 
Yoda S 

The Caged 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Scott Stevenson 1992
Page Views: 1,259
Submitted By: lee hansche on Jan 11, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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jeff at the crux of THe Caged

Description 

A very steep route with one really hard move....
Follow the steep line of good holds out toward the roof...there are many ways of doing the crux section. but they are all hard...I exit right matching on a bad crimpy rail moving to a good pinch.... Swing your feet right to slopey feet...A few moderate moves lead to a single quick shut....

I hear rumor of trick beta, please comment if you have any to add....


Location 

The obvious roof out the middle/right side of the crag....


Protection 

5 bolts to 1 quick shut (I think the other one went missing)... Cleaning this rt is a pain.... At present, there is a fixed biner on the last bolt, most people clean the rt. from this point to avoid the nast edge your rope runs over if you are clipped to the top....



Photos of The Caged Slideshow Add Photo
Looking out the cave at a climber on the caged
Looking out the cave at a climber on the caged
Jeff escaping from The Caged
Jeff escaping from The Caged
jeff cruxing
jeff cruxing
What!
What!
Jeff leaving the lay down rest and getting ready for the main event...
Jeff leaving the lay down rest and getting ready f...
you can see the whole route from here as jeff busts out the first few moves
you can see the whole route from here as jeff bust...
Comments on The Caged Add Comment
Show which comments
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Aug 15, 2007

Yes there is trick beta, but that would kind of ruin the fun of figuring it out, wouldn't it?

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 15, 2007

i just cant figure out weather my beta is "trick" or not... it is way easier than what i see most folks trying...

By seth hamel
Aug 20, 2007

The anchors are hideous.

By seth hamel
Aug 29, 2007

Walked by the caged today and the bail biner is gone. Cleaning this on the anchors is a pain.

By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Jan 9, 2011

Maybe I've been bouldering at the gym too much lately.. but I didn't find the bad rail to be that bad. The anchors are a single, gate-less cold shut (with a loop of rope hanging down from it) and a hanger-less bolt. If you're staring these in the face... you've made it! Cleaning biners were conveniently in place on the last two bolts. Wish someone left my cleaning biner on Jedi Mind Tricks - oh well.

By S. Neoh
Jan 10, 2011

Glad to learn that the cleaning biners we left on this route 2 summers ago are still there for people to use.

By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
May 7, 2011

Why?? ... why don't I just keep walking up the hill. :(

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
May 8, 2011

jeff, the wand chooses the wizard...

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
May 8, 2011

You should have just kept walking Jeff...

By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Sep 4, 2012

the trick beta is fun...