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Camp 4 Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Buttocks, The T 
Cheek T 
Chopper T 
Cid's Embrace T 
Doggie Deviations T 
Doggie Diversions T 
Doggie Do T,TR 
Edge of Night T 
Henley Quits T 
Lancelot T 
Secret Storm T 
Tweedle Dee T 
Young and the Restless T 

The Buttocks 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: 1969 Kim Schmitz and Don Peterson
Page Views: 615
Submitted By: Ed Hartouni on Jul 5, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: Route Topo

Description 

A crystally right facing corner is climbed to the chimney. The move into the chimney is the crux. No protection once in the chimney until you get up to the chokestones at the top.

Location 

Up and right from Doggie Deviations

Protection 

Standard Yosemite Valley rack.


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By Bryan G
From: San Jose
Dec 18, 2011

The chimney tunnel-through is cool. The start is kind of nasty with pro in exfoliating rock. Bring a big cam to protect the begining, followed by some pieces in the 1-3" range to get you into the chimney.

Worth doing once.
By Mark P Thomas
From: Oakland
Feb 29, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Chimney has bomber pro all the way up if you go deep enough inside. There is a flake in there that takes small pro, but it is so tight & secure that you'll wonder why you're placing it. Bring a headlamp if you want to see the way up with the least dirt & grime.

There is free booty in the lodged debris, but you'll probably want to skip that like I did and just get back out into daylight.

A #2 BD C4 cam or a solid hand jam protects the crux if you slip on the exfoliating granite.

This route is somewhat entertaining but you'll only do it once.