The ButterFace
5.11+ YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British A1
Avg: 2.8 from 5 votes
Type: | Trad, Aid, 90 ft (27 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Tyler Phillips & Luke Douglas 06' |
Page Views: | 801 total · 4/month |
Shared By: | Tyler Phillips on Jun 30, 2007 |
Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
P1. Climb obvious finger to hand crack off the ledge on the right, move up at the terminus of the crack clipping a few bolts. A WILD traverse right-ward with your heels hanging over the edge/arete get the blood pumping then you reach the crux. Push hard, grab a jug and follow the sweet arete to a nice ledge with 2 bolt belay. 5.11+
P2. A mix of aid and free through a rotten crack that leaves the ledge on the left. Pass a two bolts until free climbing becomes easy, wander right ward up some ramps to a 2 bolt belay. Dirty, rotten 5.10. Freed by Diego Peg and Tim Burnett
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