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Caveman Wall
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Better Latte Than Never S 
Butter, The S 
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Dopio S 
Funky S 
Java Creek S 

The Butter 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Stewart and Ian Spencer-Green
Page Views: 353
Submitted By: Phil Lauffen on Nov 26, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: Notice how steep it is.

Description 

From the small terrace at the far left end of the wall, clamber straight up the questionable rock to the first bolt. Clip a longer quickdraw or sling to this to reduce drag.

From here, conduct the mental crux of this route by stepping up and left to the large crack and either strenuously clip the 2nd bolt before getting established in the crack or pull some hairy moves and get solidly seated in the crack and then clip the bolt.

Look down and notice the sudden appearance of 100 feet of exposure directly below you. Cry a little, like me, if you feel the need.

Jam up the awesome crack and clip the third bolt before conducting spicy moves out a small roof to get the fourth bolt. Beware the large horn sticking out. I stepped on it but cannot guarantee that it will hold a lot of weight and it is poised directly above your belayer tethered into the anchor on the terrace below. From here, avoid barndooring out into the void and reach up off sidepulls to the less-than-positive top and clip.

Now you can feel safe.

This route would be completely classic if only there was less bird poo/feathers in the crack, but this is rock climbing. If you don't like the outdoors, go to a gym.

Location 

At the far left end of Caveman wall lies a terrace, like the throne of a king overlooking william's canyon. Clip your belayer into a two bolt anchor here to protect them from the 100 foot drop. Look straight up and marvel at the awesome climb going up the hand-sized cracks to the three foot roof.

Protection 

4-5 quickdraws plus something for the top.

Next time I may consider bringing a hand-sized cam for protecting the moves to the second bolt, but thats only because I'm a wanker.


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