The Burnt Toast 5.11b
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 55 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11b [details] |
| FA: | Mark Van Horn |
| Submitted By: | Monomaniac on Jun 30, 2009 |
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Just below the main difficulties on The Burnt Toas...
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Description This pumpy number offers great pocket climbing on beautiful black stone. The route begins easily and gets steadily more difficult with height, making this line a good warm-up option for the more difficult lines in the area. This route is also located in a recessed alcove, so it gets shade a bit earlier that some of the other routes, making it a good morning option on the hotter days. Begin atop an impressive mound of rodent feces at the base of a white, right-leaning corner. Follow the weakness up and left, then back right, to get established in the shallow open-book just left of the arete. Follow this corner on good holds, eventually moving right onto a white patch of rock with small bits of vegetation. Rest up here before embarking on the crux section. Punch straight up on cool black, pocketed limestone to a difficult, foot-intensive crux just below the anchor.
Location Located a few hundred feet right of the Dreamer Pit, just left of right-facing, right-leaning dihedral.
Protection Bolts, 2 bolt anchor.
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