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The Burnt Toast 

5.11b

   
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Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 55 feet
Consensus: 5.11b [details]
FA: Mark Van Horn
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Jun 30, 2009

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Just below the main difficulties on The Burnt Toas...

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Description 

This pumpy number offers great pocket climbing on beautiful black stone. The route begins easily and gets steadily more difficult with height, making this line a good warm-up option for the more difficult lines in the area. This route is also located in a recessed alcove, so it gets shade a bit earlier that some of the other routes, making it a good morning option on the hotter days.

Begin atop an impressive mound of rodent feces at the base of a white, right-leaning corner. Follow the weakness up and left, then back right, to get established in the shallow open-book just left of the arete. Follow this corner on good holds, eventually moving right onto a white patch of rock with small bits of vegetation. Rest up here before embarking on the crux section. Punch straight up on cool black, pocketed limestone to a difficult, foot-intensive crux just below the anchor.


Location 

Located a few hundred feet right of the Dreamer Pit, just left of right-facing, right-leaning dihedral.


Protection 

Bolts, 2 bolt anchor.