The Burn 5.8
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 150 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8+ [details] |
| FA: | Burns & Pleiss - 1974 |
| Submitted By: | Josh Janes on Jan 19, 2007 |
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BETA PHOTO: start of Burn
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Description The Burn is the first route one comes to after hiking around the corner from the Southern End on one's way up the Stairmaster. Start on a block with a small tree. P1: Climb up the face via cracks and through the overhang above to the Ecstasy Junior belay ledge. Most people stop here but there is a second pitch. P2: Climb up the face to the right of a corner.
Protection Standard rack.
Admiring his gear placements after the crux of Th...
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By Brian Adzima From: Pittsburgh Feb 9, 2007
| The Burns starts at a ~3 foot boulder about 100 ft up the stair master. One can escape the crux fingercrack of the route by stepping left to a small corner system and a tree (The Burn Escape 5.7). I have never seen or head of anyone doing the second pitch, but it is in the guidebook. I think most people just climb the 2 pitch of EJ (5.4) which is one of the best easy pitches at Seneca. The Burn can be top ropped from a set a shuts below the ledge (the ones at the ledge are for rapping). It is a bit of a rope stretch for a 60 m rope. You may have to stand on the boulder at the base to belay. |
By Jeff Karrels Apr 30, 2007
| The shuts on the top of the Burn are no longer there as of 30 April 2007. Actually when I was there a couple weeks previous to this they had been cut. Similarly the anchors for sunshine are gone as well. If you rap on a single 60m from the rap rings / slung tree, you are going to have to down climb the ramp a bit. 5.easy downclimb though. |
By Mark Cushman From: Cumming, GA Jun 14, 2007
| If you can't tell from the name of the climb, this route is very sustained and has a reputation as an ankle-buster. I watched my friend Andy Welter take a 20 footer and break his ankle on this climb in the late 90s. |
By Jesse Morehouse From: CO May 27, 2008 rating: 5.8
| The second pitch is character building and worth doing once. |
By Frances Fierst Administrator From: Manila, Philippines Oct 3, 2010
| I really enjoyed this route. The climbing was varied and sustained, especially at the top. I was able to did a little bit of everything (lie back, hand jams, and finger locks) etc, just in one pitch. There is a roomy belay ledge to bring up your second. Be careful rapping down if using a 60 m rope! |
By Nate R Jun 3, 2011 rating: 5.10a
| Fantastic route, my first dose of seneca retard-sandbag-grading (the previous day I did stuff on south pillar that was all dead-on for grades). I give the 1st pitch 10a. 2nd pitch was also quite fun. |
By Joe Hunt From: Long Beach, CA Sep 30, 2011 rating: 5.9 PG13
| Mark and Nate have it right! When I got to the crux I knew if I slipped (even if my piece held) I would break a leg at best. As I turned the crux my piece fell out. :O Gulp! I consider it a pretty serious route for the 5.8-5.9 leader, unless when you're at the crux you have the perfect gear with you, and you place it perfectly. Great pro above that, though. And, a hell of a fun route. |
By Tom Fralich From: Fresno, CA Nov 6, 2011 rating: 5.8+
| Glad I didn't read the comments here before I got on this one. While I agree that this is on the harder end of 5.8, it is NOT a dangerous route. The move over the small roof is committing, but can be protected well with a blue Alien up high. I placed it, then downclimbed and rested before moving on. The crux comes in the thin cracks above where gear can be placed almost anywhere. |
By Andy Weinmann From: Alexandria, VA May 7, 2012 rating: 5.8
| Awesome line with a "business end" that comes up and smacks you. I find this climb to have 3 cruxy sections in the upper cracks, each one having a good rest stance at the end if you can find it. The moves are consistently 5.8. Gear is anywhere you wanna place it. Just good climbing fun! |
By Edward Medina Administrator From: Charlotte, NC May 13, 2012 rating: 5.8+
| You can protect the opening moves with a #5 metolius placed in the hollow flake slightly left of the tree. From here you can step up for a smaller cam in the same feature and then step right into the crack proper. |
By ajtwoface May 19, 2012 rating: 5.8 PG13
| This a great route, but sustained. I got stung by a wasp right at the massive undercling about halfway up. Its a safe route, and it has a massive ledge at the end of the first pitch that it shares with EJ, sunshine, and Ecstasy. |
By P. Sully May 23, 2012 rating: 5.8
| my first route at Seneca, before we owned any cams. we had to wade the river after the flood of '85 took the old bridge out. this was the crux. my hands froze solid following Greg up the Burn and then only warmed up in the finger crack. Then they "burned" as the blood flowed back in. |
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