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South Peak - West Face
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The Burn 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Burns & Pleiss - 1974
Page Views: 3,613
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Jan 19, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (66)
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BETA PHOTO: start of Burn

Description 

The Burn is the first route one comes to after hiking around the corner from the Southern End on one's way up the Stairmaster. Start on a block with a small tree.

P1: Climb up the face via cracks and through the overhang above to the Ecstasy Junior belay ledge. Most people stop here but there is a second pitch.

P2: Climb up the face to the right of a corner.

Protection 

Standard rack.


Photos of The Burn Slideshow Add Photo
Admiring his gear placements  after the crux of The Burn (5.8) is Ross Purnell.
Admiring his gear placements after the crux of Th...
my dad (ernie)feeling "the burn"
my dad (ernie)feeling "the burn"

Comments on The Burn Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 25, 2014
By Brian Adzima
From: the Paris of Appalachia
Feb 9, 2007

The Burns starts at a ~3 foot boulder about 100 ft up the stair master.

One can escape the crux fingercrack of the route by stepping left to a small corner system and a tree (The Burn Escape 5.7). I have never seen or head of anyone doing the second pitch, but it is in the guidebook. I think most people just climb the 2 pitch of EJ (5.4) which is one of the best easy pitches at Seneca.

The Burn can be top ropped from a set a shuts below the ledge (the ones at the ledge are for rapping). It is a bit of a rope stretch for a 60 m rope. You may have to stand on the boulder at the base to belay.
By Jeff Karrels
Apr 30, 2007

The shuts on the top of the Burn are no longer there as of 30 April 2007. Actually when I was there a couple weeks previous to this they had been cut. Similarly the anchors for sunshine are gone as well. If you rap on a single 60m from the rap rings / slung tree, you are going to have to down climb the ramp a bit. 5.easy downclimb though.
By Mark Cushman
From: Cumming, GA
Jun 14, 2007

If you can't tell from the name of the climb, this route is very sustained and has a reputation as an ankle-buster. I watched my friend Andy Welter take a 20 footer and break his ankle on this climb in the late 90s.
By Jesse Morehouse
From: CO
May 27, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The second pitch is character building and worth doing once.
By Frances Fierst
Administrator
From: Munchweiler, Germany
Oct 3, 2010

I really enjoyed this route. The climbing was varied and sustained, especially at the top. I was able to did a little bit of everything (lie back, hand jams, and finger locks) etc, just in one pitch. There is a roomy belay ledge to bring up your second. Be careful rapping down if using a 60 m rope!
By Nate R
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 3, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Fantastic route, my first dose of seneca retard-sandbag-grading (the previous day I did stuff on south pillar that was all dead-on for grades). I give the 1st pitch 10a.

2nd pitch was also quite fun.
By Joe Hunt
From: Long Beach, CA
Sep 30, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

Mark and Nate have it right! When I got to the crux I knew if I slipped (even if my piece held) I would break a leg at best. As I turned the crux my piece fell out. :O Gulp! I consider it a pretty serious route for the 5.8-5.9 leader, unless when you're at the crux you have the perfect gear with you, and you place it perfectly. Great pro above that, though. And, a hell of a fun route.
By Tom Fralich
From: Fort Collins, CO
Nov 6, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Glad I didn't read the comments here before I got on this one. While I agree that this is on the harder end of 5.8, it is NOT a dangerous route. The move over the small roof is committing, but can be protected well with a blue Alien up high. I placed it, then downclimbed and rested before moving on. The crux comes in the thin cracks above where gear can be placed almost anywhere.
By Andy Weinmann
From: Alexandria, VA
May 7, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Awesome line with a "business end" that comes up and smacks you. I find this climb to have 3 cruxy sections in the upper cracks, each one having a good rest stance at the end if you can find it. The moves are consistently 5.8. Gear is anywhere you wanna place it. Just good climbing fun!
By Edward Medina
Administrator
From: Brighton, CO
May 13, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

You can protect the opening moves with a #5 metolius placed in the hollow flake slightly left of the tree. From here you can step up for a smaller cam in the same feature and then step right into the crack proper.
By ajtwoface
May 19, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

This a great route, but sustained. I got stung by a wasp right at the massive undercling about halfway up. Its a safe route, and it has a massive ledge at the end of the first pitch that it shares with EJ, sunshine, and Ecstasy.
By P. Sully
May 23, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

my first route at Seneca, before we owned any cams.

we had to wade the river after the flood of '85 took the old bridge out. this was the crux.
my hands froze solid following Greg up the Burn and then only warmed up in the finger crack. Then they "burned" as the blood flowed back in.
By Evan Anderson
From: Brookeville, MD
Aug 22, 2013

Sick route. Best way to get up to the west face. The second pitch is cool too and could benefit from more traffic. Traverse right under the roof and up a corner. You can use the same tree as the top of EJ for a belay anchor.
By Matt Desenberg
From: North Berwick, ME
Feb 25, 2014
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Pretty solid throughout. Not to say that you can't get hurt, but I think this is the sort of route that feels harder because of it's rep. I led it as just another climb and heard later that it had maimed a bunch of people, but it felt really solid overall. Ignorance is bliss?